UKC

23m.

Rockfax Description
The tall arete is photogenic and very good, if rather unbalanced. The last few moves make up the reach-dependent crux. Potential hold-loss has likely made a hard move even tougher. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
J1_TOV 10 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Extend clip 3 to save on drag over sharp edges.
Show beta
βeta: Extend clip 3 to save on drag over sharp edges.
J1_TOV 10 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Two very rusted maillons on two staples through the crux make clipping quite hard and potentially strain the gates when loaded due to the lack of space available. Near the bottom, some of the staples look slightly pulled although solid enough. At the top, the lower off is poorly situated making rethreading difficult. This route could probably do with some maintenance/attention because the climbing on it is very good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two very rusted maillons on two staples through the crux make clipping quite hard and potentially strain the gates when loaded due to the lack of space available. Near the bottom, some of the staples look slightly pulled although solid enough. At the top, the lower off is poorly situated making rethreading difficult. This route could probably do with some maintenance/attention because the climbing on it is very good.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kinaesthesia

Grade: 7a+ ***
(White Hole)

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