Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
The tall arete is photogenic and very good, if rather unbalanced. The last few moves make up the reach-dependent crux. Potential hold-loss has likely made a hard move even tougher. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| J1_TOV | 10 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Extend clip 3 to save on drag over sharp edges. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Extend clip 3 to save on drag over sharp edges. |
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| J1_TOV | 10 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two very rusted maillons on two staples through the crux make clipping quite hard and potentially strain the gates when loaded due to the lack of space available. Near the bottom, some of the staples look slightly pulled although solid enough. At the top, the lower off is poorly situated making rethreading difficult. This route could probably do with some maintenance/attention because the climbing on it is very good. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Two very rusted maillons on two staples through the crux make clipping quite hard and potentially strain the gates when loaded due to the lack of space available. Near the bottom, some of the staples look slightly pulled although solid enough. At the top, the lower off is poorly situated making rethreading difficult. This route could probably do with some maintenance/attention because the climbing on it is very good. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Animal Magnetism
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)