Loading Notifications...
23m.

Rockfax Description
Great jug hauling to a fingery finish. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Vaughan. Named after a character in an Aussie soap. Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest?, Portland sub 6b, Portland, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Portland Sendathon, Phil and Jens' Sub 7a Silly Name Game

Feedback

User Date Notes
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best 6a in the island!
 
Show beta
βeta: One of the best 6a in the island!
nugski 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!!
Wilbur 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!)
Alex More 29 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies?
Alex More 27 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top
Richard Horn 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell.
Wilbur 28 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end!
Alex More 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff

Logged Ascents

686 users have logged this
95 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 111
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)