UKC

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

23m.

Rockfax Description
Great jug-hauling to a fingery finish. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Vaughan. Named after a character in an Aussie soap. Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
ClimbMoore 30 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Black section around third clip I found challenging, but if you go right from the main handhold it's much easier. Conserve as much energy for the top as your pumped arms need to grab smaller handholds!
Show beta
βeta: Black section around third clip I found challenging, but if you go right from the main handhold it's much easier. Conserve as much energy for the top as your pumped arms need to grab smaller handholds!
Matt Clarke 23 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stay away. No way 6a. Two rusty bail mallians don’t lie. Sketchy finish and (for me) one to avoid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stay away. No way 6a. Two rusty bail mallians don’t lie. Sketchy finish and (for me) one to avoid.
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best 6a in the island!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best 6a in the island!
nugski 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!!
Wilbur 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!)
Alex More 29 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies?
Alex More 27 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top
Richard Horn 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell.
Wilbur 28 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end!
Alex More 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff

Logged Ascents

884 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 226 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 120
Votes cast 105
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

Loading Notifications...