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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Start below a nose of rock. Climb up to the overhang below the nose then break right to a double mantleshelf and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
At the far right-hand end of the block. Start below a nose of rock. Climb up to the overhang below the nose then break right to a double mantleshelf and the top.

John Leonard 03/Apr/2021.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
johnl 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bolted top stop people escaping right when doing The Nose project and claiming they've done it. ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolted top stop people escaping right when doing The Nose project and claiming they've done it. ;)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ultrasaurus

Grade: 6c ***
(Hidden Quarry)

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