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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
Start up the bouldery wall of The Post Rad Gypsy Junkshow's Search for Teacakes. Break right and move up to reach a groove and flared cracks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This is very eliminant low down, force yourself out of the more logical crack line to do the bouldery sequences.
Start as for 'The Post Rad Gypsy Junkshow's search for Teacakes'
Using the same powerful boulder sequence for 6c+
(Can be escaped using the crack of Very Sleepy River lowering either routes grade to 6b+/c)
Careful climbing above leads to delicate finish up into groove via the sharp flaring cracks. (Dirty)
James Pymn 22/May/2021.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Red Rain
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Winspit)