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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
A good and popular climb. A sustained pitch that contains an array of perplexing sequences split by good shakeouts. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kris suriyo 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoLMRLDyUF8
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoLMRLDyUF8
hotsteve33 3 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Routeto the left (Sanfet Kuss) still requires a great deal of cleaning. Some nice moves on the clean lower wall, but rather muddy and loose still on the upper half.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Routeto the left (Sanfet Kuss) still requires a great deal of cleaning. Some nice moves on the clean lower wall, but rather muddy and loose still on the upper half.

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 122
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
To Wish the Impossible

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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