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22m.

Rockfax Description
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish. © Rockfax

FA. Marty Hallett Jun/1998.

Ticklists

Portland, Phil and Jens' Sub 7a Silly Name Game

Feedback

User Date Notes
dycotiles 29 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic!
 
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βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic!
John Wellbelove 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top.
nealh 20 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out
βeta?
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βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out
Richard Horn 26 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move.
βeta?
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βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move.
nealh 3 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself.
The Jazz Butcher 18 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you.
The Jazz Butcher 4 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it.
βeta?
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βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it.
The Jazz Butcher 4 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!!
John Wellbelove 4 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb.
SteveWright1967 31 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Trad Free World

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)