UKC Logbook - 'Crack My Bitch Up'

22m.

Rockfax Description
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish. © Rockfax

FA. Marty Hallett Jun/1998.

Ticklists

Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Blacknor South Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025

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User	Date		Notes
P Natl	30 Jun, 2024	Show βeta βeta: This now-20-year-old exchange is HILARIOUS. It is basically the reason I decided to try the route. Well done everyone involved. Oh and yes the finish is quite hard.
Show beta βeta: This now-20-year-old exchange is HILARIOUS. It is basically the reason I decided to try the route. Well done everyone involved. Oh and yes the finish is quite hard.
dycotiles	29 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic!
Show beta βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic!
John Wellbelove	6 Jun, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top.
nealh	20 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out
Richard Horn	26 Jan, 2005	Show βeta βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move.
nealh	3 Oct, 2004	Show βeta βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself.
Climber_Bill	18 Feb, 2004	Show βeta βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you.
Climber_Bill	4 Feb, 2004	Show βeta βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it.
Climber_Bill	4 Feb, 2004	Show βeta βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!!
John Wellbelove	4 Feb, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb.
SteveWright1967	31 Mar, 2000	Show βeta βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest.