Rockfax Description
A magnificent route up groovy rock. The protection is good, after the start, but the climbing is steep and sustained until you get to the headwall. Start on a ledge right of the recess and traverse left to reach the left-hand of two grooves above the pool. Contort up the groove to reach a wide crack, follow this then traverse right and up across the steep wall. Step around the juggy arete, in a superb position, into another groove. Climb this and the bulge above with difficulty. Finish more easily up the razor sharp headwall. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 11/May/1978.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembroke dreams , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| conronoy | 25 Aug |
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βeta: Beware, the rock before the upper crux. It may not be as good as it seems. I had big chunks blow out after a fall and the rock also failed. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Beware, the rock before the upper crux. It may not be as good as it seems. I had big chunks blow out after a fall and the rock also failed. |
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| steveb2006 | 18 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: The CC guide description is a bit misleading as it says on reaching the wide crack you traverse R to arete. You climb the wide crack to a resting point above then climb diagonally R up the cracked wall to step round the arete - no traversing on it really except the step round the arete. (Description here is ok) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The CC guide description is a bit misleading as it says on reaching the wide crack you traverse R to arete. You climb the wide crack to a resting point above then climb diagonally R up the cracked wall to step round the arete - no traversing on it really except the step round the arete. (Description here is ok) |
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| gem_stone12 | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: My friend fell from the very top of this route today after a block came off. The fall was a good 7-8 metres and resulted in an injured leg. Be aware that this could well happen again! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: My friend fell from the very top of this route today after a block came off. The fall was a good 7-8 metres and resulted in an injured leg. Be aware that this could well happen again! |
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| Chad123 | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: I found plenty of gear on this route, and you get plenty of hands off rests so it's not too bad really. The airy move round the corner is on the biggest jugs in the world and is pleasantly easy, only the top bulge is pumpy. Great fun! I think wall trained people will dislike the contorted shiny groove at the bottom but it's not that bad..... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found plenty of gear on this route, and you get plenty of hands off rests so it's not too bad really. The airy move round the corner is on the biggest jugs in the world and is pleasantly easy, only the top bulge is pumpy. Great fun! I think wall trained people will dislike the contorted shiny groove at the bottom but it's not that bad..... |
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| Neil Binns | 11 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: I wasn't leading but I don't remember this being well protected | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I wasn't leading but I don't remember this being well protected |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bosherston Head
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Fickle Heart
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Raming Hole Area)