Rockfax Description
An exquisite climb that culminates in a breathtaking finale at the very top of the crag. Start just right of a low, overhung niche.
1) 4b, 22m. Take the line of left-trending flakes to a small corner groove and climb this to a ledge and good belay.
1a) Variation Start, HVS 5a. The pitch can be climbed direct, passing the overhung niche on its right.
2) 4a, 14m. On the right is a blank-looking slab, climb the slab rightwards on good small holds to a huge flake. Scramble behind it to a good ledge and belay on its opposite side.
3) 5a, 30m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, and then step left before climbing up slightly right to easier territory. Layback up the exposed, leaning cracks in the headwall to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The peg on the crux of P3 is now broken off and missing - note there is good gear available next to it. Please do not replace - the agreed policy for West Penwith is no new fixed gear and let old gear rust in peace.
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , Very good routes in the UK , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , West Country Climbs , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , South West Classic VS's , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Cornwall , 22 For 2022 , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Kernow , Dan’s Delights , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mikeysee123 | 7 Jul |
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βeta: Up there in the grade for sure, especially the top section. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Up there in the grade for sure, especially the top section. |
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Tall Oak | 17 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Conor on P1 and the epic P3. I lead P2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Conor on P1 and the epic P3. I lead P2. |
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RichardN | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Top pitch is at top of the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top pitch is at top of the grade. |
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Ian Carr | 15 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Peg long gone on the crux pitch. Not been in for years. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Peg long gone on the crux pitch. Not been in for years. |
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Gazmataz | 1 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: The peg at the crux on pitch 3 has gone. Looks like it was eroded long ago. Still protectable with some cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The peg at the crux on pitch 3 has gone. Looks like it was eroded long ago. Still protectable with some cams. |
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kempy7 | 30 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later! | βeta? | |
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βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later! |
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kempy7 | 30 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It rained so we abbed, only to go again moments later! |
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Chris_Tee | 17 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Probably the best VS in the country?! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Probably the best VS in the country?! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bosigran)