UKC

161m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The best VDiff in the West Country. Although protection is always at hand, the exposure, sections of down climbing and the traversing nature of the route call for all party members to be competent at the grade. Slings are very useful. Start at a belay ledge just before the arete.
1) 25m. Move left around the arete to a ramp above the zawn. Move along to a corner at the end of the ramp. Climb the wall on its left on good holds, left and then back slightly right, to beneath a vertical crack. Climb the crack on superb holds to a belay on the ridge.
2) 10m. Move along the easy-angled ridge to a belay at the base of an open corner that forms a chimney at its top.
3) 18m. Climb the corner and chimney to a belay under a neb.
4) 16m. Move up left to beneath the neb, and then make a traverse left through a large gap and climb down to a belay at a col. © Rockfax

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Must-do routes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The Julia Bradbury Collection , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Diamond in the Rough , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Big Easys , High Quality Adventure routes , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Big Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Summer 2017 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , University of Exeter must tick's , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Outragous Positions , I want a Pasty! , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Cornwall , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Summertime Travels 2022 , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Official SUMC (strathclyde) ticklist , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , South West Coastal Solo , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do!

Feedback

User Date Notes
RichPacker 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The approach has some tricky sections, some may want to rope up. Worth getting the tide right to do the first pitch.
Show beta
βeta: The approach has some tricky sections, some may want to rope up. Worth getting the tide right to do the first pitch.
RichardN 21 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Short pitches for very first section. Two pushes moving together (as a 4) once established on ridge proper. 3h30 from flaking ropes to coiling them.
Show beta
βeta: Short pitches for very first section. Two pushes moving together (as a 4) once established on ridge proper. 3h30 from flaking ropes to coiling them.
thegrowler1981 22 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Well deserved 3 stars.
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Well deserved 3 stars.
Rosa M W 21 Apr, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of (surprisingly big!!) creepy crawlies at night.
Show beta
βeta: Lots of (surprisingly big!!) creepy crawlies at night.
NigelHurst 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only 2 tricky bits really, start of P1, but rest of P1 just a jugfest, lovely. Move around corner for final traverse feels a bit precarious but there are hands if you feel for them. Downclimb from P5 looked tricky but actually was a doddle, such grippy rock.
Show beta
βeta: Only 2 tricky bits really, start of P1, but rest of P1 just a jugfest, lovely. Move around corner for final traverse feels a bit precarious but there are hands if you feel for them. Downclimb from P5 looked tricky but actually was a doddle, such grippy rock.
BignutNeil 8 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two bits of rope left to abseil off and plenty of traversing fun throughout the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two bits of rope left to abseil off and plenty of traversing fun throughout the climb.
Lauren.corbett 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Warning - don't attempt on a sunny bank holiday weekend OR if you do then get there early. Also not convinced on the route finding, think everyone got it wrong on at least one pitch, if you are doing a really horrible down climb its because you missed out the 'traverse left' through the gap.
Show beta
βeta: Warning - don't attempt on a sunny bank holiday weekend OR if you do then get there early. Also not convinced on the route finding, think everyone got it wrong on at least one pitch, if you are doing a really horrible down climb its because you missed out the 'traverse left' through the gap.

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 296
Votes cast 304
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face

Grade: VD ***
(Porthgwarra Buttress and Hella Point)

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