Continuously excellent climbing, brilliant rock, exhilarating situations and a stunning location make this the very best VDiff in the West Country. Although protection is always at hand, the exposure, sections of downclimbing and the traversing nature of the route call for all party members to be competent at the grade. Slings are very useful. Start at a belay ledge just before the arete.1) 25m. Move left around the arete to a ramp above the zawn. Move along to a corner at the end of the ramp. Climb the wall on its left on good holds, left and then back slightly right, to beneath a vertical crack. Climb the crack on superb holds to a belay on the ridge.2) 10m. Move along the easy-angled ridge to a belay at the base of an open corner that forms a chimney at its top.3) 18m. Climb the corner and chimney to a belay under a protruding neb.4) 16m. Move up left to beneath the neb, and then make a traverse left through a large gap and climb down to a belay at a col.5) 17m. Move up the ridge to where it steepens and move left to a traverse line. Follow the traverse line for about 5m and then climb a short corner up onto the ridge. Move along the ridge to a belay on its summit.6) 30m. Downclimb a corner on the right of the ridge (when looking up the ridge) and then scramble along easy ground to a belay in the next col.7) 25m. Move up the ridge to a perched block and traverse the foot ledge on its right. Descend awkwardly to a belay in the col.8) 20m. Make a tricky move onto the right side of the pinnacle (this is the large pinnacle with the memorial plaque on it). Climb the face and ridge all the way to finish at the point where the ridge is crossed at the start of the descent. 9) VS 4b (optional). Another pitch is possible but is much tougher than the rest of the climb. © Rockfax
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