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200m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Continuously excellent climbing, brilliant rock, exhilarating situations and a stunning location make this the very best VDiff in the West Country. Although protection is always at hand, the exposure, sections of downclimbing and the traversing nature of the route call for all party members to be competent at the grade. Slings are very useful. Start at a belay ledge just before the arete.
1) 25m. Move left around the arete to a ramp above the zawn. Move along to a corner at the end of the ramp. Climb the wall on its left on good holds, left and then back slightly right, to beneath a vertical crack. Climb the crack on superb holds to a belay on the ridge.
2) 10m. Move along the easy-angled ridge to a belay at the base of an open corner that forms a chimney at its top.
3) 18m. Climb the corner and chimney to a belay under a protruding neb.
4) 16m. Move up left to beneath the neb, and then make a traverse left through a large gap and climb down to a belay at a col.
5) 17m. Move up the ridge to where it steepens and move left to a traverse line. Follow the traverse line for about 5m and then climb a short corner up onto the ridge. Move along the ridge to a belay on its summit.
6) 30m. Downclimb a corner on the right of the ridge (when looking up the ridge) and then scramble along easy ground to a belay in the next col.
7) 25m. Move up the ridge to a perched block and traverse the foot ledge on its right. Descend awkwardly to a belay in the col.
8) 20m. Make a tricky move onto the right side of the pinnacle (this is the large pinnacle with the memorial plaque on it). Climb the face and ridge all the way to finish at the point where the ridge is crossed at the start of the descent.
9) VS 4b (optional). Another pitch is possible but is much tougher than the rest of the climb. © Rockfax

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Must-do routes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Julia Bradbury Collection, CUMC Ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Diamond in the Rough, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Big Easys, High Quality Adventure routes, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Big Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, Summer 2017, Adventure ticklist 2018, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), University of Exeter must tick's, Definitive *** West Cornwall, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Outragous Positions, I want a Pasty!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rosa M W 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Lots of (surprisingly big!!) creepy crawlies at night.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of (surprisingly big!!) creepy crawlies at night.
NigelHurst 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only 2 tricky bits really, start of P1, but rest of P1 just a jugfest, lovely. Move around corner for final traverse feels a bit precarious but there are hands if you feel for them. Downclimb from P5 looked tricky but actually was a doddle, such grippy rock.
 
Show beta
βeta: Only 2 tricky bits really, start of P1, but rest of P1 just a jugfest, lovely. Move around corner for final traverse feels a bit precarious but there are hands if you feel for them. Downclimb from P5 looked tricky but actually was a doddle, such grippy rock.
BignutNeil 8 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two bits of rope left to abseil off and plenty of traversing fun throughout the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two bits of rope left to abseil off and plenty of traversing fun throughout the climb.
Lauren.corbett 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Warning - don't attempt on a sunny bank holiday weekend OR if you do then get there early. Also not convinced on the route finding, think everyone got it wrong on at least one pitch, if you are doing a really horrible down climb its because you missed out the 'traverse left' through the gap.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Warning - don't attempt on a sunny bank holiday weekend OR if you do then get there early. Also not convinced on the route finding, think everyone got it wrong on at least one pitch, if you are doing a really horrible down climb its because you missed out the 'traverse left' through the gap.

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Route of Interest

Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face

Grade: VD ***
(Porthgwarra Buttress and Hella Point)