57m, 4 pitches.
Powerful climbing on a natural line and a good alternative link up for those that have already climbed Buccaneer. Access the Ruckle via the Marmolata Buttress abseil.
1) HVS 5a, 22m. Start as for Flying Finish and climb to the large roof. Traverse right past Billy Pigg to turn the corner and belay.
2) VS 4b, 10m. Climb up the corner then traverse right just below the main fault in an airy situation until the diagonal crack of Sinbad is reached. Climb the crack to belay on the main fault line.
3) HVS 5a, 10m. Follow the fault line right to drop across the corner (of Buccaneer). Ascend the corner to good belays on large cams below the capping roof.
4) E1 5b, 15m. Ascend to the roof and its in-situ slings. Swing up and slightly left to follow the continuation crack to the top.
1) HVS 5a, 22m. Start as for Flying Finish and climb to the large roof. Traverse right past Billy Pigg to turn the corner and belay.
2) VS 4b, 10m. Climb up the corner then traverse right just below the main fault in an airy situation until the diagonal crack of Sinbad is reached. Climb the crack to belay on the main fault line.
3) HVS 5a, 10m. Follow the fault line right to drop across the corner (of Buccaneer). Ascend the corner to good belays on large cams below the capping roof.
4) E1 5b, 15m. Ascend to the roof and its in-situ slings. Swing up and slightly left to follow the continuation crack to the top.
FA. David Coley, Pete Callaghan 09/Mar/2014.
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Route of Interest
The Adventures of Portland Bill
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)