Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the faultline.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe and team 16/Jun/1968.
Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Routes for MCI , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 13 Jan |
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βeta: Another wild and fantastic route well deserving its 3 stars. A great lead by Simon, especially the sustained groove above the thread on the top pitch, a bit of a sting in the tail. Crux was the sketchy mud traverse back along the cliff top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Another wild and fantastic route well deserving its 3 stars. A great lead by Simon, especially the sustained groove above the thread on the top pitch, a bit of a sting in the tail. Crux was the sketchy mud traverse back along the cliff top! |
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kfsand | 16 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: We confused the start of Perversion for this line and had a proper nightmare, the description of Jo strangely matches the start of that climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: We confused the start of Perversion for this line and had a proper nightmare, the description of Jo strangely matches the start of that climb |
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Iain Weymouth | 13 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. To exit the top belay stakes I recommend heading east towards the lighthouse, west is longer and more frightening especially when damp ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route. To exit the top belay stakes I recommend heading east towards the lighthouse, west is longer and more frightening especially when damp ! |
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Cdubs | 14 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner |
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Graeme Hammond | 21 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong! | ||
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βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong! |
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Owen W-G | 23 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base. |
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Neil Adams | 7 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)