30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe and team 16/Jun/1968

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, UK Classic Corners, Ultimate HVS ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

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UserDateNotes
Owen W-G 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
Neil Adams 7 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
J.A.Thomson 26 Aug AltLd O/S
JBassford 3 Aug AltLd I led first pitch. Very awkward getting out from under the roof, got a sling caught in the gear at the lip on the roof and thought i was stuck in the crack. Second part of first pitch was great stemming and jugs all the way up the corner. Jakes pitch much more sustained with hard crux over a bulge with fewer placements above. Glad not to lead that second pitch.
I led first pitch. Very awkward getting out from under the roof, got a sling caught in the gear at the lip on the roof and thought i was stuck in the crack. Second part of first pitch was great stemming and jugs all the way up the corner. Jakes pitch much more sustained with hard crux over a bulge with fewer placements above. Glad not to lead that second pitch.
Rafal Malczyk 29 Jun AltLd O/S Lead pitch #2.
with nigel bassam, Nick Smith
Lead pitch #2.
with nigel bassam, Nick Smith
Hidden 29 Jun AltLd
Lenny 5 Jun AltLd O/S
with Stephen
with Stephen
Hidden 5 Jun AltLd O/S
aiyer 2 Jun AltLd O/S P1, sooo much bird poo...that move out of the roof is 4c if you are a giant! For us shorties it's like 5b!
P1, sooo much bird poo...that move out of the roof is 4c if you are a giant! For us shorties it's like 5b!
Kev Little 2 Jun AltLd O/S So dark and dingy on pitch 1 it's hard to know if you're pulling on rock or bird shit
with aiyer
So dark and dingy on pitch 1 it's hard to know if you're pulling on rock or bird shit
with aiyer
Trace 12 May AltLd O/S
martin one 19 Apr AltLd Lead pitch 1
with ssutton
Lead pitch 1
with ssutton
ssutton 19 Apr AltLd O/S Led P2, cool route both pitches good and fairly balanced
Led P2, cool route both pitches good and fairly balanced
Johnathan 18 Apr 2nd
with Richard Ive
with Richard Ive
Martin Bagshaw 12 Apr AltLd O/S Awesome fun. Definitely better than the death choss I climbed with Catherine in 2015
with Tom Hudson
Awesome fun. Definitely better than the death choss I climbed with Catherine in 2015
with Tom Hudson
Rp20 17 Feb AltLd O/S Wow. Mega adventure. Both of us found it totally outrageous all the way up! First swanage experience. Looking forward to more on the boulder ruckle!!
with Elliot
Wow. Mega adventure. Both of us found it totally outrageous all the way up! First swanage experience. Looking forward to more on the boulder ruckle!!
with Elliot
elliotphillips43 17 Feb Lead dog
with Rich yo
with Rich yo
Louise Bow 9 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Will be forever indebted to Marianne for leading me through a cave of pigeon s**t! Enjoyed the climb, which was followed by an absolutely terrifying scramble across the top to find a way through the vegetation to the path
Will be forever indebted to Marianne for leading me through a cave of pigeon s**t! Enjoyed the climb, which was followed by an absolutely terrifying scramble across the top to find a way through the vegetation to the path
Bruise Apprentice 9 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S P2 is epic climbing, but even with a direct start on P1 you can't avoid getting hands and feet involved with a good 3-5mm of (fresh) pigeon shit. Top-out is now so pulverised it is quite dangerous to traverse along the edge until you can find an opening through the brambles to get back into the path.
P2 is epic climbing, but even with a direct start on P1 you can't avoid getting hands and feet involved with a good 3-5mm of (fresh) pigeon shit. Top-out is now so pulverised it is quite dangerous to traverse along the edge until you can find an opening through the brambles to get back into the path.
josefft 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with samkat
with samkat
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Flavio 23 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S In one pitch, tried very hard not to vomit all the way up.
In one pitch, tried very hard not to vomit all the way up.
JendeHoxar 23 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Alex Winter 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Great line.
with Alex, W. Morgan
Great line.
with Alex, W. Morgan
WillWMo 22 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 2nd
rustaldo 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Lead in 1 long pitch.. turned out to be a bad idea.. quite sketchy with the drag getting up to the belay stake. Thought the route was fine, but not worthy of top50 for me.
Lead in 1 long pitch.. turned out to be a bad idea.. quite sketchy with the drag getting up to the belay stake. Thought the route was fine, but not worthy of top50 for me.
jon_gill1 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Arul pitch 1 and me pitch 2. Great route with oodles of exsposure
with Arul
Arul pitch 1 and me pitch 2. Great route with oodles of exsposure
with Arul
Tom265 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Paul Eckton 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Michael Jenei
with Michael Jenei
katiep 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S Funky 3d moves with lots of exposure, bit greasy at the start
with Heather
Funky 3d moves with lots of exposure, bit greasy at the start
with Heather
Hidden 12 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Apr, 2018 -
Hidden 25 Nov, 2017 AltLd rpt
Connorolfe 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd Led p 2, Enjoyed some heel-hookery on the direct start to avoid bird s**t
Led p 2, Enjoyed some heel-hookery on the direct start to avoid bird s**t
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Adam Bosworth ?Jul, 2017 Lead
whitehouse_rhys 14 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with hattie, ed
with hattie, ed
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
robgixer 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S P2 as first pitch was damp and not great looking
P2 as first pitch was damp and not great looking
Sam Mills 18 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with BenSS
with BenSS
simibrown 10 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Rich
with Rich
Thumbspragger 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Dan Richards
with Dan Richards
Adam Hill 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Simon
with Simon
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Dominic Acland 29 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S Full on battle out of the cave and then ran the two pitches together - but took the more direct line above the mid-height ledge, which was well-travelled - but according to the Climbers Club guide I should have been a few yards further right...? Still, good fun and testing enough for me!
Full on battle out of the cave and then ran the two pitches together - but took the more direct line above the mid-height ledge, which was well-travelled - but according to the Climbers Club guide I should have been a few yards further right...? Still, good fun and testing enough for me!
petecallaghan 29 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S Bridged out of the slimy cave, got stuck at the exit from the cave into the crack above. Got my arm jammed, my helmet jammed and my DSLR jammed. Reversed it with difficulty. Rigged the camera to hang below me, then faced back into the cave and found an easy and elegant bridging move into the crack. My shoulders still ache from my contortions. Dominic followed the groove direct to the top, and judging by the in situ wires he's not the first. However the topo shows the route moving right from the first stance and up the groove to the right of the direct route. Jo-ball?
Bridged out of the slimy cave, got stuck at the exit from the cave into the crack above. Got my arm jammed, my helmet jammed and my DSLR jammed. Reversed it with difficulty. Rigged the camera to hang below me, then faced back into the cave and found an easy and elegant bridging move into the crack. My shoulders still ache from my contortions. Dominic followed the groove direct to the top, and judging by the in situ wires he's not the first. However the topo shows the route moving right from the first stance and up the groove to the right of the direct route. Jo-ball?
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Bloke on a Rope 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Corker!
Corker!
ngreen 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 25 May, 2016 AltLd O/S I thought the crux was getting through the overhang into the corner on pitch 1......4c?...more like 5b.......or maybe just need to blow away my Swanage cobwebs? Second pitch sustained 5a.
with pete
I thought the crux was getting through the overhang into the corner on pitch 1......4c?...more like 5b.......or maybe just need to blow away my Swanage cobwebs? Second pitch sustained 5a.
with pete
dobby 200 8 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Giles
with Giles
w-watson 8 May, 2016 Lead
Chris Sansum 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Nathan Crabb
with Nathan Crabb
crabby2009 7 May, 2016 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 1 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Russtygibbons 1 May, 2016 Lead
Russtygibbons 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
bryan61 2 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with m meaney
with m meaney
Matt.c.Warner 22 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Simon
with Simon
mapperley samurai 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Top quality stuff: atmospheric and interesting. Lead P2.
Top quality stuff: atmospheric and interesting. Lead P2.
Katsmiff 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Thought we were doing Jo, weren't doing Jo. Lesson learnt about doing some research before climbing at Swanage and making sure you're on the right climb. Others had the sense to sacrifice gear and ab off, but not us. So we have labelled this new climb 'f***ing oh my god I'm gonna die!' Couldn't trust anything on the wall. I'm never scared whilst climbing - this is the most scared I've ever been.
Thought we were doing Jo, weren't doing Jo. Lesson learnt about doing some research before climbing at Swanage and making sure you're on the right climb. Others had the sense to sacrifice gear and ab off, but not us. So we have labelled this new climb 'f***ing oh my god I'm gonna die!' Couldn't trust anything on the wall. I'm never scared whilst climbing - this is the most scared I've ever been.
afterthesend 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Angus lead pitch one, I lead pitch two.
Angus lead pitch one, I lead pitch two.
Barry Kerslake 21 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Shamina Kapadia
with Shamina Kapadia
Shane Willis 8 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Led both pitches. Direct start to pitch 1 was fun. Second pitch has different lines in the rockfax guide, and climbers club guide, each showing the route going up a different groove at the top. I took the rockfax line, having been drawn towards the tat just below the roof. Took a bit of effort to gain the corner above.
Led both pitches. Direct start to pitch 1 was fun. Second pitch has different lines in the rockfax guide, and climbers club guide, each showing the route going up a different groove at the top. I took the rockfax line, having been drawn towards the tat just below the roof. Took a bit of effort to gain the corner above.
Paul_southgate68 11 Mar, 2015 - Out to lunch!
with Tom R
Out to lunch!
with Tom R
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Dave Mahon 26 Oct, 2014 Lead Led both pitches. Adventure climbing. Remote, flapping birds, crashing waves and big pitches. P1 seems longer than the 17m in the book if you start from the cave. P2 is gnarly and exposed.
with Justin Sharpe
Led both pitches. Adventure climbing. Remote, flapping birds, crashing waves and big pitches. P1 seems longer than the 17m in the book if you start from the cave. P2 is gnarly and exposed.
with Justin Sharpe
felixizzy 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S P2
with Mike
P2
with Mike
LucaC 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S P2. Dirty and not really top 50 quality.
P2. Dirty and not really top 50 quality.
ben.richards 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Guano-tastic!
with LucaC
Guano-tastic!
with LucaC
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 30 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt best ascent, skinny dipping before doing the climb! loving the summer!
with Al Palmer
best ascent, skinny dipping before doing the climb! loving the summer!
with Al Palmer
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
mattprince 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt
stuart34 9 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tom thorne
with Tom thorne
Norman_P_W 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd Great but ripped t shirt on first pitch.
with Bob M
Great but ripped t shirt on first pitch.
with Bob M
Bob M 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd Proper Swanage 3D climbing at the start! Both of us struggled to get round initial overhang and ended with ripped T-shirts in the same place on the shoulder. More struggles on top pitch and I needed a few rests on the in-situ thread to work out the crux. A fine adventure and the Ruckle at its best.
Proper Swanage 3D climbing at the start! Both of us struggled to get round initial overhang and ended with ripped T-shirts in the same place on the shoulder. More struggles on top pitch and I needed a few rests on the in-situ thread to work out the crux. A fine adventure and the Ruckle at its best.
NancyJones 7 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
Justin T 7 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
JM 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Ciderslider 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S Awesome climb, both pitches really good value for their grades - starting to enjoy the whole wild pulling through bulges and roofs thing.
Awesome climb, both pitches really good value for their grades - starting to enjoy the whole wild pulling through bulges and roofs thing.
ciderspider 17 May, 2014 2nd dog a great adventure on the ruckle. First pitch went fine but went slightly right on the second pitch at the overhang. Got pumped making my way back and ended up with an airy dangle of shame before resting and completing.
a great adventure on the ruckle. First pitch went fine but went slightly right on the second pitch at the overhang. Got pumped making my way back and ended up with an airy dangle of shame before resting and completing.
andycash 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with chris day
with chris day
Duncan Campbell 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1.
Led P1.
Matt77 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S I led the 1st pitch and s**** myself up going for the direct start which is definitely harder than 4c. This led to serious wobble time on the rest of the pitch. Second pitch led by Shane and was excellent.
with Shane
I led the 1st pitch and s**** myself up going for the direct start which is definitely harder than 4c. This led to serious wobble time on the rest of the pitch. Second pitch led by Shane and was excellent.
with Shane
islandlynx ?May, 2014 AltLd O/S lead pitch 2. Matt did the direct start with heel-hook definitely harder than a 4c move.
lead pitch 2. Matt did the direct start with heel-hook definitely harder than a 4c move.
Monkey_Alan 13 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
joedoherty 11 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Anna Gibson
with Anna Gibson
Muttly 30 Nov, 2013 2nd β I set off to lead tyne first pitch but headed into the cave thinking that looked the easiest route. that meant guano all over my shoes meaning I couldn't trust my feet. I was already intimidated by the steepness and the location (new to Swanage) and so Steve had a pop at it. I found the moves tough but doable. Establishing in the groove is definitely the crux of the climb and the climb feels definitely different to terrain I have climbed on before. We elected for Steve to do both pitches.
I set off to lead tyne first pitch but headed into the cave thinking that looked the easiest route. that meant guano all over my shoes meaning I couldn't trust my feet. I was already intimidated by the steepness and the location (new to Swanage) and so Steve had a pop at it. I found the moves tough but doable. Establishing in the groove is definitely the crux of the climb and the climb feels definitely different to terrain I have climbed on before. We elected for Steve to do both pitches.
DaveGarrity 16 Nov, 2013 2nd I didn't tell Mike it was my first HVS, having never climbed VS at Swanage...! Took me to my limits, got really pumped on the second pitch needing a breather, not helped by the helicopter hovering low over the cliffs! Still, a brilliant day, and really mild for a November climb. Also the irony in the name of the climb...(!)
I didn't tell Mike it was my first HVS, having never climbed VS at Swanage...! Took me to my limits, got really pumped on the second pitch needing a breather, not helped by the helicopter hovering low over the cliffs! Still, a brilliant day, and really mild for a November climb. Also the irony in the name of the climb...(!)
mikehenesy 16 Nov, 2013 Lead Hey Matt, that first pitch, well the pidgeons may have flown but they'd left lots of little messages, in fact I can scatalogicaly state it was a veritably guano-fest. The abbed off threaded nut and crab were still there, corroded in. Not being very swanage fit getting round that overhang was an effort as was the rest of it, a sweat fest in the stupidly hot conditions, with mucho disco leggo in evidence. Good gear and great rock, and Dave G's first HVS, fantastic!
with Dave Garrity
Hey Matt, that first pitch, well the pidgeons may have flown but they'd left lots of little messages, in fact I can scatalogicaly state it was a veritably guano-fest. The abbed off threaded nut and crab were still there, corroded in. Not being very swanage fit getting round that overhang was an effort as was the rest of it, a sweat fest in the stupidly hot conditions, with mucho disco leggo in evidence. Good gear and great rock, and Dave G's first HVS, fantastic!
with Dave Garrity
CurlyStevo ?Nov, 2013 Lead Awesome climb somewhat marred by the guano on the start on pitch 1. Soft in the grade and well protected.
with PuppyTheDog
Awesome climb somewhat marred by the guano on the start on pitch 1. Soft in the grade and well protected.
with PuppyTheDog
sarpedon 6 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Brilliant, adventurous route. Climbed with Andy Jordan.
Brilliant, adventurous route. Climbed with Andy Jordan.
Nexonen 6 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Sarp
with Sarp
Kerm ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
AlexD 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Luxulyan 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Alex
with Alex
wild_nomad 3 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Best route of the day! Marred only by the bird crap covered start in the cave. I would give it just 2 stars because of this. Once past this a tricky move into the corner (Solid 5a) gives lovely climbing to a 'cosy' ledge. The second pitch is simply spectacular! Leave something left for the awkward finishing groove.
with Kevin
Best route of the day! Marred only by the bird crap covered start in the cave. I would give it just 2 stars because of this. Once past this a tricky move into the corner (Solid 5a) gives lovely climbing to a 'cosy' ledge. The second pitch is simply spectacular! Leave something left for the awkward finishing groove.
with Kevin
Jevans ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch
Lead first pitch
petegruf 29 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with nick k
with nick k
Hidden 7 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
johncoxmysteriously 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd Swanage HVS doesn't come easier than this. Very nice route though. Be good if the software could be sorted out so that there weren't five pictures of climbers called Joe attached to it on here, mind.
Swanage HVS doesn't come easier than this. Very nice route though. Be good if the software could be sorted out so that there weren't five pictures of climbers called Joe attached to it on here, mind.
Simon Allcock 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Mary, Wilki
with Mary, Wilki
mes32 6 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Monkey_Alan 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd rpt Led P1. Started from the "window" L of Thunderball as the sea was still a bit high.
Led P1. Started from the "window" L of Thunderball as the sea was still a bit high.
uncontrollable 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd rpt lead pitch 2
lead pitch 2
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
nigel pearson 10 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S awkward moves on first pitch, nice open climbing on second.
with Robin
awkward moves on first pitch, nice open climbing on second.
with Robin
ChrisBrooke 13 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S John P1, me P2. Climbing as a three was straightforward thanks to the capacious half-height belay ledge. Two enjoyable pitches. Pulling through the bulge on P2 was fine and well protected. The (sandy) groove above it was surprisingly awkward though. Keep something in the tank for it.
with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
John P1, me P2. Climbing as a three was straightforward thanks to the capacious half-height belay ledge. Two enjoyable pitches. Pulling through the bulge on P2 was fine and well protected. The (sandy) groove above it was surprisingly awkward though. Keep something in the tank for it.
with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
Kirill 29 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Led as one pitch.
with GrahamD
Led as one pitch.
with GrahamD
Julian Prieto 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ollie Dorrell
with Ollie Dorrell
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Andy Chubb 26 Aug, 2012 Lead Committing and strenuous at the 'bulge' on the second pitch. It looked a lot like an overhang to me!
with Chris Mellor
Committing and strenuous at the 'bulge' on the second pitch. It looked a lot like an overhang to me!
with Chris Mellor
eroica64 26 Aug, 2012 2nd Brilliant hard Ruckle HVS
with Andy Chubb
Brilliant hard Ruckle HVS
with Andy Chubb
bigrob 21 Aug, 2012 Lead
with harri honan
with harri honan
Hidden 21 Aug, 2012 2nd
ollie1 17 Aug, 2012 -
mikeyjbs 12 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with andrew caddie
with andrew caddie
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
GarethHall 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with rd20
with rd20
rd20 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Rd p1
Rd p1
givemetea 14 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S P1 me; P2 Ann
with Ann Chong
P1 me; P2 Ann
with Ann Chong
Stroppy 23 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Brilliant climbing, great fist jam on the crux.
with Luke Johnson
Brilliant climbing, great fist jam on the crux.
with Luke Johnson
Hidden 27 May, 2012 AltLd
paultaylor 10 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Damp slimy start. Quality route great intro to the ruckle.
Damp slimy start. Quality route great intro to the ruckle.
will moy 10 May, 2012 AltLd
with paul taylor
with paul taylor
Antony87 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S Led pitch 1. Amazing and committing second pitch.
with Mark Lowe
Led pitch 1. Amazing and committing second pitch.
with Mark Lowe
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 AltLd rpt
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Ian JL ??, 2012 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
decs 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd yes, Dusty.
with tebs
yes, Dusty.
with tebs
jamespilgrim 20 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Made a more direct start from boulder via heel hook. Extremely dirty after the recent monsoon conditions. Stake is there (newish one) and ab rope useful on the topout
Made a more direct start from boulder via heel hook. Extremely dirty after the recent monsoon conditions. Stake is there (newish one) and ab rope useful on the topout
MarkRyder 20 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 Lead
JezzaCat ?Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with Nevil
with Nevil
Hidden ?Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2011 -
norb ?Jun, 2011 2nd
matt.jj 21 May, 2011 AltLd dog Lead first pitch clean - tough for a 4c, more like 5a. Slipped after crux on 2nd pitch - knackered.
Lead first pitch clean - tough for a 4c, more like 5a. Slipped after crux on 2nd pitch - knackered.
The Ivanator 21 May, 2011 2nd Pretty wild. Got over the roof on pitch one with a ridiculously strenuous and inelegant horizontal manoeuvre. Pitch 2 is unrelenting, but great climbing.
Pretty wild. Got over the roof on pitch one with a ridiculously strenuous and inelegant horizontal manoeuvre. Pitch 2 is unrelenting, but great climbing.
dickie01 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Julian King
with Julian King
Dave Mahon ?May, 2011 AltLd O/S Matt led the dank cave start. I had trouble passing the roof - my rucksack kept getting stuck. Arrived pumped - ready for the 5a pitch. Took a small fall when I ran out of juice.
with matt.jj
Matt led the dank cave start. I had trouble passing the roof - my rucksack kept getting stuck. Arrived pumped - ready for the 5a pitch. Took a small fall when I ran out of juice.
with matt.jj
Jim Slater 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1
with Trevor Wilson
Led P1
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 16 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt Led P1.
with Bisset
Led P1.
with Bisset
steveb2006 7 Apr, 2011 Lead Damp felt hard for 4c (pitch 1)
with Ian Cartwright
Damp felt hard for 4c (pitch 1)
with Ian Cartwright
Hidden 26 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Stewart Armstrong ??, 2011 -
with Ivan Bicknell
with Ivan Bicknell
Kevster ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Viorel Chicu 24 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Led the first pitch, nice route.
with frodostickel
Led the first pitch, nice route.
with frodostickel
uncontrollable 24 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S lead second pitch
with Viskii
lead second pitch
with Viskii
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 2nd
Andre Clarke 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch & 2nd the next pitch
with Alan, Monkey_Alan
Lead 1st pitch & 2nd the next pitch
with Alan, Monkey_Alan
Monkey_Alan 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2. Great route, perfect example of the Ruckle. Hard start, sustained and techincal in the middle and then a horrendous loose earthy top-out.
Led P2. Great route, perfect example of the Ruckle. Hard start, sustained and techincal in the middle and then a horrendous loose earthy top-out.
Andre Clarke 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd Lead first pitch. Rather awkward to get out of the cave. 2nd Pitch quite hard but fantastic exposure
Lead first pitch. Rather awkward to get out of the cave. 2nd Pitch quite hard but fantastic exposure
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Ed Griffin 25 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
with A123
with A123
garywong 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with kleinej
with kleinej
kleinej 25 Jul, 2010 2nd dog
trev_f 4 Jul, 2010 Lead
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Geoffers 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Graham Westbrook ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
LoopyLou 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S A fabulous route, the first pitch (which i led) has most of the excitement. The direct start (rather than from the back of the cave) is a more natural line but is tricky and has precarious moves before you place gear - as i found out; a hold broke off in my hand, which had me slide back down to the starting boulder. Of course i jumped straight back on the same line and just found a different hold to use. It was a sobering reminder how temporary the rock can be at Swanage after a period of heavy rain fall.
with Thea Williams
A fabulous route, the first pitch (which i led) has most of the excitement. The direct start (rather than from the back of the cave) is a more natural line but is tricky and has precarious moves before you place gear - as i found out; a hold broke off in my hand, which had me slide back down to the starting boulder. Of course i jumped straight back on the same line and just found a different hold to use. It was a sobering reminder how temporary the rock can be at Swanage after a period of heavy rain fall.
with Thea Williams
Hidden 23 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1
Led pitch 1
markfromstoke 18 Apr, 2010 2nd
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Theeni ?Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
manwithacam 14 Mar, 2010 Lead Lead as one pitch. This has been on my tick list for a couple of years, good to do it, good route tho not as good as it looks in the guidebook.
with Joris
Lead as one pitch. This has been on my tick list for a couple of years, good to do it, good route tho not as good as it looks in the guidebook.
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 14 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
DaNo123 27 Sep, 2009 2nd
with martin
with martin
colkurtz 6 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with Robb
with Robb
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead
sgl 10 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Jez
with Jez
Different Steve 10 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt
with Clare
with Clare
jezb1 9 Jul, 2009 AltLd Ld 4c P1
Ld 4c P1
Hidden 10 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 3 May, 2009 AltLd
Ceridwen 23 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23 Apr, 2009 AltLd
tobydunford 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 22 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
feilx 21 Mar, 2009 2nd rpt
with Angus
with Angus
breed 21 Feb, 2009 2nd O/S
with Ellis Bird
with Ellis Bird
Hidden 14 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
mutt ??, 2009 -
with Naomi Moran
with Naomi Moran
scott titt ??, 2009 -
Neil McA 8 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
ASchwirtz 11 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Nikki
with Nikki
Dan_Carroll 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
with Rebecca Holland
RocknRoll 12 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S I lead the first pitch and Ramon lead the second. Bridging past the roof on the first pitch felt commiting.
with Ramon Marin Martinez
I lead the first pitch and Ramon lead the second. Bridging past the roof on the first pitch felt commiting.
with Ramon Marin Martinez
jamie ward 8 Feb, 2008 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
with Marcus Harvey
mike.moss ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
TimPerkin 16 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
with Dave Gale
Hidden 10 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
Matt Shepherd 10 Aug, 2007 AltLd
blahblahblah 4 Aug, 2007 AltLd dnf both failed to get past the overhang - left gear and lowered off
with Nick Hirst
both failed to get past the overhang - left gear and lowered off
with Nick Hirst
Ed Babs 3 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S + 2nd with trev 04/07/10
with Kate
+ 2nd with trev 04/07/10
with Kate
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
clipskipper 28 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S First pitch starts in a filthy cave, but the belay is good and the second pitch worth the 3 stars. Crux move bold and exposed - good fun! Btw, stakes are now replaced/visible.
with Sue Hazel
First pitch starts in a filthy cave, but the belay is good and the second pitch worth the 3 stars. Crux move bold and exposed - good fun! Btw, stakes are now replaced/visible.
with Sue Hazel
Hidden 10 Jun, 2007 Lead rpt
trevor macalonan 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2007 2nd rpt
Hidden 30 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 2007 AltLd
brian watson ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
AJ007 17 Sep, 2006 AltLd
featuresforfeet 20 Aug, 2006 2nd
with Patrick
with Patrick
AJ007 ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
Owen W-G 6 May, 2006 Lead O/S Ab-ed into Marmolata 1pm, topped out after 6pm, worrying Daisy in process who had been informed that the route "wouldn't take long". We did faff about exploring a recent yacht wreck, and aborted an attempt of some other route (Sinbad?) before starting Jo, which involved quite a bit of boulder-hopping to find. Mega dehydrated at top. Led both pitches, typically Hard Very Swanage. Angry gull at stance.
with Tony Seale
Ab-ed into Marmolata 1pm, topped out after 6pm, worrying Daisy in process who had been informed that the route "wouldn't take long". We did faff about exploring a recent yacht wreck, and aborted an attempt of some other route (Sinbad?) before starting Jo, which involved quite a bit of boulder-hopping to find. Mega dehydrated at top. Led both pitches, typically Hard Very Swanage. Angry gull at stance.
with Tony Seale
Different Steve 1 May, 2006 AltLd O/S Led thrutchy 1st pitch
with Craig Evans
Led thrutchy 1st pitch
with Craig Evans
jamieevans ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
maybe_si ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??, 2005 -
cem 19 Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S Led p1
with GrahamD
Led p1
with GrahamD
benjino ?Jan, 2004 -
Hidden 22 Feb, 2003 2nd O/S
aged_ape ?Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Rob B
with Rob B
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
WB 13 Mar, 1999 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Dave Cundy 13 Apr, 1997 AltLd O/S Just got back to the car as Zola scored our third goal against Wimbledon, to put Chelsea into the FA cup final!
with Phil Lee
Just got back to the car as Zola scored our third goal against Wimbledon, to put Chelsea into the FA cup final!
with Phil Lee
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead O/S
cragspud ??, 1995 AltLd
William Robertson ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
sdht ??, 1993 -
Nigel Coe 13 Dec, 1992 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
kylo-342 ?Jul, 1992 AltLd
with Jason M
with Jason M
ewjudge 6 Feb, 1992 AltLd O/S Wonderful climb
with Dave Hopkins
Wonderful climb
with Dave Hopkins
Hidden ?Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 2 Jun, 1991 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
steve taylor ?May, 1989 AltLd
with mark grover
with mark grover
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead
DDDD ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 22 Oct, 1983 -
with Frank Farrell
with Frank Farrell
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 62
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set