The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
An unusual traverse that provides a long and interesting tour of some of the very best rock and positions on this section of cliff. Well protected and easily combined with the excellent pitch of White Dwarf to give a better ending. Start as for Elysium.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the large crack on Elysium to a ledge, then move right along a twin horizontal break until a step down gains a ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 17m. Follow the breaks rightwards to a spike belay at the edge of the wall on Acapulco.
3) 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the faultline - strenuous - then belay on the right at the faultline.
4) 4c, 20m. Ascend flakes on the right, then move leftwards steeply to a roof. Cross this and continue up the exit corner. A better way of finishing is via White Dwarf, the variation upper pitch of The Planet. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 09/Aug/1986.
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , SW Climbs - Swanage
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