72m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An unusual traverse that provides a long and interesting tour of some of the very best rock and positions on this section of cliff. Well protected and easily combined with the excellent pitch of White Dwarf to give a better ending. Start as for Elysium.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the large crack on Elysium to a ledge, then move right along a twin horizontal break until a step down gains a ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 17m. Follow the breaks rightwards to a spike belay at the edge of the wall on Acapulco.
3) 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the faultline - strenuous - then belay on the right at the faultline.
4) 4c, 20m. Ascend flakes on the right, then move leftwards steeply to a roof. Cross this and continue up the exit corner. A better way of finishing is via White Dwarf, the variation upper pitch of The Planet. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 09/Aug/1986.


Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , SW Climbs - Swanage , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth


User Date Notes
beanfingers 19 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: best E2 traverse ever - full of positive holds and complex hand crossing
Show beta
βeta: best E2 traverse ever - full of positive holds and complex hand crossing

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 14
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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