Rockfax Description
An exposed second pitch. Start below a left-facing corner-crack.
1) 5b, 18m. Pass a roof and follow the crack until it is possible to break right and climb a corner. Step left onto a hanging boulder then move up and right to follow a crack to the faultline.
2) 5c, 20m. Move up left and climb a corner to a roof. Go over on jugs and up to another roof. Pass this then move right to a groove. © Rockfax
FA. Nigel Coe, Tim Dunsby 08/Dec/1984.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 30 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: 1st pitch felt harder than 5a. belay is not easy to arrange as some of the rock is very soft and sandy. on 2nd pitch the rock is better; getting through 1st roof is steady 5b but after getting your feet onto its lip to getting beyond the 2nd roof is steady 5c all the way. the crux moves over the 2nd roof are not obvious and take a bit of thought. the peg below the 2nd roof is still there but, as usual, i wouldn't trust it. there's a good cam placement under the 2nd roof near a semi-rest but between that and the stakes at the top all i found was a dodgy number 1 wire. don't let that put you off though, it's worth doing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 1st pitch felt harder than 5a. belay is not easy to arrange as some of the rock is very soft and sandy. on 2nd pitch the rock is better; getting through 1st roof is steady 5b but after getting your feet onto its lip to getting beyond the 2nd roof is steady 5c all the way. the crux moves over the 2nd roof are not obvious and take a bit of thought. the peg below the 2nd roof is still there but, as usual, i wouldn't trust it. there's a good cam placement under the 2nd roof near a semi-rest but between that and the stakes at the top all i found was a dodgy number 1 wire. don't let that put you off though, it's worth doing! |
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daveycrocket | 26 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: is it right that the crux peg has gone ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: is it right that the crux peg has gone ? |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)