UKC

38m.

Rockfax Description
An intimidating but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle. Start below a groove, just left of a deep corner 25m from the base of the abseil. Enter the groove and follow it to the faultline. Move right and up through a bulge into a short corner (possible belay). Move right onto the wall above the roof and traverse this up rightwards on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete to a niche (old peg), move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. A good alternative (slightly harder) start (HVS 5b) takes the deep corner on the right to the roof then goes left to join the parent route. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, A.Webster 10/Apr/1966.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Dorset, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris_Tee 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage...
βeta?
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βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage...
Chris the Tall 17 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches?
βeta?
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βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches?
hotsteve33 13 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle
βeta?
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βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle
Alex More 29 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up!
βeta?
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βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up!
Oli 20 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty.
βeta?
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βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty.
Graham Ad 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!).

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 183
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 181
Votes cast 164
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)
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