UKC Logbook - 'Lightning Wall'

38m.

Rockfax Description
An intimidating but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle. Start below a groove, just left of a deep corner 25m from the base of the abseil. Enter the groove and follow it to the faultline. Move right and up through a bulge into a short corner (possible belay). Move right onto the wall above the roof and traverse this up rightwards on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete to a niche (old peg), move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. A good alternative (slightly harder) start (HVS 5b) takes the deep corner on the right to the roof then goes left to join the parent route. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, A.Webster 10/Apr/1966.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Definitive *** Swanage

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User	Date		Notes
Cyrees	9 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Large detached block near the top of lightning groove on the left. I marked it with an \"X\" but take care.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Large detached block near the top of lightning groove on the left. I marked it with an "X" but take care.
Kiddie68	13 Jan	Show βeta βeta: Did this years ago, as a 2-pitch route. Felt much harder this time. It looked like, after fault line, route should layback up solid flake on right, but this felt hard with no footholds. Si had lead straight up here, which proved easier, but he’d continued up too far, not transferring onto the right wall for the traverse. This was due the enticing blocky holds and the promise of a cam placement, but ultimately made the step right harder, and rope drag inevitable. Something in between is correct. Enjoyable nonetheless, with a solid finish by Swanage standards.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Did this years ago, as a 2-pitch route. Felt much harder this time. It looked like, after fault line, route should layback up solid flake on right, but this felt hard with no footholds. Si had lead straight up here, which proved easier, but he’d continued up too far, not transferring onto the right wall for the traverse. This was due the enticing blocky holds and the promise of a cam placement, but ultimately made the step right harder, and rope drag inevitable. Something in between is correct. Enjoyable nonetheless, with a solid finish by Swanage standards.
Chris_Tee	16 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage...
Chris the Tall	17 Sep, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing	22 Dec, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches?
hotsteve33	13 Nov, 2005	Show βeta βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle
Alex More	29 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up!
Oli	20 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty.
Graham Ad	2 Sep, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!).