UKC Logbook - 'Lightning Wall'

38m.

Rockfax Description
An intimidating but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle. Start below a groove, just left of a deep corner 25m from the base of the abseil. Enter the groove and follow it to the faultline. Move right and up through a bulge into a short corner (possible belay). Move right onto the wall above the roof and traverse this up rightwards on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete to a niche (old peg), move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. A good alternative (slightly harder) start (HVS 5b) takes the deep corner on the right to the roof then goes left to join the parent route. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, A.Webster 10/Apr/1966.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

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User	Date		Notes
Chris_Tee	16 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage...
Chris the Tall	17 Sep, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing	22 Dec, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches?
hotsteve33	13 Nov, 2005	Show βeta βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle
Alex More	29 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up!
Oli	20 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty.
Graham Ad	2 Sep, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!).