Rockfax Description
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear where you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, and beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the faultline.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep and hard moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975.
West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jtree03 | 3 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady. |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)