Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A very exciting first pitch with good protection. Described here with the top pitch of The Heidelberg Creature.
1) 5a, 24m. Climb Sweet SA to its bulge and then move up right to below the large roof. Traverse right under it until a corner at its end leads to the faultline. Move right along the faultline to a belay (shared with The Heidelberg Creature).
2) 4b, 20m. Pitch 2 of The Heidelberg Creature. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5a, 4b

FA. D.M.Roberts, R.M.Wilson 19/May/1968.


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***

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