73m, 4 pitches.
Traverses eastwards mostly below the main break. Access the Boulder Ruckle via The Ramp abseil.
1) VS 4c, 23m. Start just left of the big boulder. Climb the thin corner crack and head left around the small roof (as for Black Sunshine). Head 8m back right to climb the short layback and slab. Belay on the right on the main break just around arête at the top of the big corner.
2) VS 4b, 15m. Descend the corner for 2m to reach the finger crack heading downwards across the wall. Follow this on underclings to belay in a small corner.
3) VS 4c, 20m. Continue right around the arête, across the large corner (difficult) to cross the compact rock and climb up to the main break.
4) HS 4a, 15m. (Bottomless Buttress) Launch up the jugs to the roof where it meets the arête and follow the corner to the top.
1) VS 4c, 23m. Start just left of the big boulder. Climb the thin corner crack and head left around the small roof (as for Black Sunshine). Head 8m back right to climb the short layback and slab. Belay on the right on the main break just around arête at the top of the big corner.
2) VS 4b, 15m. Descend the corner for 2m to reach the finger crack heading downwards across the wall. Follow this on underclings to belay in a small corner.
3) VS 4c, 20m. Continue right around the arête, across the large corner (difficult) to cross the compact rock and climb up to the main break.
4) HS 4a, 15m. (Bottomless Buttress) Launch up the jugs to the roof where it meets the arête and follow the corner to the top.
FA. David Coley, Scott Borden 12/Dec/2013.
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Route of Interest
Tensor II
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)