Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
1) VS 4c, 23m. Start just left of the big boulder. Climb the thin corner crack and head left around the small roof (as for Black Sunshine). Head 8m back right to climb the short layback and slab. Belay on the right on the main break just around arête at the top of the big corner.
2) VS 4b, 15m. Descend the corner for 2m to reach the finger crack heading downwards across the wall. Follow this on underclings to belay in a small corner.
3) VS 4c, 20m. Continue right around the arête, across the large corner (difficult) to cross the compact rock and climb up to the main break.
4) HS 4a, 15m. (Bottomless Buttress) Launch up the jugs to the roof where it meets the arête and follow the corner to the top.
FA. David Coley, Scott Borden 12/Dec/2013.
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Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)