Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
1) HS 4a, 40m. Start as for The Ramp by climbing up left of a black nose, but cross the wall rightwards below The Ramp to a large flake system and climb right and up to meet the main break. Traverse the main break until you can drop down to stand on a jammed boulder in the corner of Jericho Groove.
2) S 4a, 7m. Remove anything from the back of your harness and drop down behind the boulder (the rabbit’s hole) leaving protection for the second. The less slim will need to down-climb the outer west side of the boulder. Swing right and down to belay in a small corner below the widest part of the massive roof.
3) HS 4a, 40m. Traverse right just above the main black flint bands. Belay after a slightly harder move at the base of a short layback and slab.
4) VS 4b, 21m. Up the layback and the wall above (as for Black Sunshine).
FA. David Coley, Pete Callaghan 30/Nov/2013.
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Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)