Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

43m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A big route that needs careful ropework on the initial pitch, and some large nuts and cams. Start 5m right of Jo.
1) 5a, 20m. Gain a niche under the roof and traverse left past a bulge before moving up onto the edge of the roof. Head up rightwards to a groove and climb it for 3m until a traverse left reaches a corner that is followed to the faultline and belay.
2) 5a, 19m. Traverse right and then the wall above it rightwards to a groove. Take the groove past a bulge and then on to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 5m right of Jo beneath a large roof.
1) 5b, 23m. Climb to a niche below the roof. Hand-traverse left around the bulge, pull up onto the lip of the roof, and move up rightwards across a wall to gain a groove. Follow this for 3m before traversing back left to a corner-crack, which leads to a belay at the faultline.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse rightwards along the faultline and climb the wall above diagonally right to a groove. Climb the groove past the bulge and continue to the top.


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Logged Ascents

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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