UKC

43m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A big route that needs careful ropework on the initial pitch, and some large nuts and cams. Start 5m right of Jo.
1) 5a, 20m. Gain a niche under the roof and traverse left past a bulge before moving up onto the edge of the roof. Head up rightwards to a groove and climb it for 3m until a traverse left reaches a corner that is followed to the faultline and belay.
2) 5a, 19m. Traverse right and then the wall above it rightwards to a groove. Take the groove past a bulge and then on to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 5m right of Jo beneath a large roof.
1) 5b, 23m. Climb to a niche below the roof. Hand-traverse left around the bulge, pull up onto the lip of the roof, and move up rightwards across a wall to gain a groove. Follow this for 3m before traversing back left to a corner-crack, which leads to a belay at the faultline.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse rightwards along the faultline and climb the wall above diagonally right to a groove. Climb the groove past the bulge and continue to the top.

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High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)

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