No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Climb the pleasant slab (no gear) and delicate arete above. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Mark's Grit Solo Circuits , Burbage North VS Challenge (Rockfax Eastern Grit) , Slab Dreams , Burbage Starred VS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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donkarlo | 1 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: By the time you have got to the gear you have made the hard moves, the top arete is steady but I don't know if I would like to slip | βeta? | |
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βeta: By the time you have got to the gear you have made the hard moves, the top arete is steady but I don't know if I would like to slip |
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DannyC | 12 May, 2005 |
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βeta: really nice. only slightly bold though enough to get the legs twitchin a bit. quite unusual climb for grit, an easy(ish) slab. | βeta? | |
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βeta: really nice. only slightly bold though enough to get the legs twitchin a bit. quite unusual climb for grit, an easy(ish) slab. |
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Si dH | 1 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: only my second ever VS, although I do like slabs, and i just soloed the first half (ie. no pro) with a rope and then put some gear in the ledge to protect the arete. This was supposed to be more technical but in fact the crux is on the slab and i could have soloed the whole thing. Id give it VS 4a, didnt even consider side runners, but with them no more than severe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: only my second ever VS, although I do like slabs, and i just soloed the first half (ie. no pro) with a rope and then put some gear in the ledge to protect the arete. This was supposed to be more technical but in fact the crux is on the slab and i could have soloed the whole thing. Id give it VS 4a, didnt even consider side runners, but with them no more than severe. |
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Simon Caldwell | 13 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: S 4a with side runner, VS 4a without. | βeta? | |
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βeta: S 4a with side runner, VS 4a without. |
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LakesWinter | 31 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: If you go straight up the top slab it is easy, if you climb the L arete then the top is more tricky, makes for a more sustained and enjoyable route | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you go straight up the top slab it is easy, if you climb the L arete then the top is more tricky, makes for a more sustained and enjoyable route |
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Jon Stewart | 31 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: I soloed this before I could lead solidly at VS...sounds dumb, but I found pleasant and easy. i'd give it HS 4b with side runners, VS 4b as a solo. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I soloed this before I could lead solidly at VS...sounds dumb, but I found pleasant and easy. i'd give it HS 4b with side runners, VS 4b as a solo. |
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Dale Berry | 29 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Crux definitely in the first couple of metres. Protectable with a sneaky high friend in the diff to the right. The top is run-out but easy and in a lovely position. I feel its a good tech grade easier than The Crow's Nest (and a lot less strenuous in its first half) but has a lot less gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crux definitely in the first couple of metres. Protectable with a sneaky high friend in the diff to the right. The top is run-out but easy and in a lovely position. I feel its a good tech grade easier than The Crow's Nest (and a lot less strenuous in its first half) but has a lot less gear. |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Leg breaking landing and no gear till half height, I've seen people place side runners in Black slab variation. st VS you might as well solo it, all in all Lovely moves and superb exposed finish. VS 4c barefoot | βeta? | |
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βeta: Leg breaking landing and no gear till half height, I've seen people place side runners in Black slab variation. st VS you might as well solo it, all in all Lovely moves and superb exposed finish. VS 4c barefoot |
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Chris Fitzhugh | 25 Feb, 2003 |
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βeta: Crow's Nest seems easier, and is well protected. Black Slab is not. Sunset Slab at Froggatt, HVS 4b, is far easier, even in the lead. Possibly Black Slab is easy for those who go on climbing walls. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crow's Nest seems easier, and is well protected. Black Slab is not. Sunset Slab at Froggatt, HVS 4b, is far easier, even in the lead. Possibly Black Slab is easy for those who go on climbing walls. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Higgar Tor)