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Second attempt. For the first I ignored my own and my partners' brains and decided to swing out too far right onto the arĂȘte, ran into a dead end and pumped out.
Second attempt. For the first I ignored my own and my partners' brains and decided to swing out too far right onto the arĂȘte, ran into a dead end and pumped out.
Climbing with Ann, Daniel, Jamie and Jane. Jamie lead. Daniel second, then Jane second and then me second. A one star route. Weather was partially cloudy with warm sunny spells and a cooling wind on the crag top. Temp approx. 20 deg.
with Ann, Daniel, Jamie, Jane
Climbing with Ann, Daniel, Jamie and Jane. Jamie lead. Daniel second, then Jane second and then me second. A one star route. Weather was partially cloudy with warm sunny spells and a cooling wind on the crag top. Temp approx. 20 deg.
Brutal is right, but great route!
Seconded this a few years back so decided I'd be able to squeeze it in before starting work. One rope got jammed in a cam in the crack so had to down climb do some unjamming. Only just made it to work on time!
Brutal is right, but great route!
Seconded this a few years back so decided I'd be able to squeeze it in before starting work. One rope got jammed in a cam in the crack so had to down climb do some unjamming. Only just made it to work on time!
Tricky cam placements in the roof -- they seem to walk in too easily. Spent a long time removing a couple of cams, got quite pumped, coming round the lip was hard and all was done in bad form and no style.
with Andy Tyler
Tricky cam placements in the roof -- they seem to walk in too easily. Spent a long time removing a couple of cams, got quite pumped, coming round the lip was hard and all was done in bad form and no style.
Don't know why I tried to undercut the roof on my previous attempt. What a chump! Saying that, was still nearly off at the crux today. Lack of desire for a third try saw me through..
Don't know why I tried to undercut the roof on my previous attempt. What a chump! Saying that, was still nearly off at the crux today. Lack of desire for a third try saw me through..
Superb route although found it pretty hard for the grade! Fell twice at the crux but nailed the sequence cleanly at the third attempt - shattered! Out from under the hand crack roof, swinging round and up the rounded arete, very bold and powerful but very balancey at the same time. The route has a bit of everything, flexible bridging up to the roof, the scary crux, and even bit of jamming in top section. Fantastic route but won't be in a rush to lead it again!
with Leon
Superb route although found it pretty hard for the grade! Fell twice at the crux but nailed the sequence cleanly at the third attempt - shattered! Out from under the hand crack roof, swinging round and up the rounded arete, very bold and powerful but very balancey at the same time. The route has a bit of everything, flexible bridging up to the roof, the scary crux, and even bit of jamming in top section. Fantastic route but won't be in a rush to lead it again!
Took a big ripper on the first attempt to get out from under the roof; had gone too far round the arĂÂȘte. Cam held firm though and led through clean on second attempt.
Took a big ripper on the first attempt to get out from under the roof; had gone too far round the arĂÂȘte. Cam held firm though and led through clean on second attempt.
establishing the upper crack took some figuring out - and increasing amounts of RH pump - so had a cheeky rest before committing. harder then knight's move imo, although a polar opposite in climbing style!
establishing the upper crack took some figuring out - and increasing amounts of RH pump - so had a cheeky rest before committing. harder then knight's move imo, although a polar opposite in climbing style!
Climbed with superfresher after watching Tim take a good whipper into a holly bush. Harder than last time as I had to fight to save my overcammed BD silver.
with A.Freshman
Climbed with superfresher after watching Tim take a good whipper into a holly bush. Harder than last time as I had to fight to save my overcammed BD silver.
Fell off on the swing around the arete... Pretty mangled cam! Found this so much harder than the other 5a's in the area (Haven't tried Knights Move yet).
Fell off on the swing around the arete... Pretty mangled cam! Found this so much harder than the other 5a's in the area (Haven't tried Knights Move yet).
Very awkward in very cold conditions. Moving out from the overhang and getting established in the final crack proved difficult and tenuous. It snowed...
with Rebecca Pickles
Very awkward in very cold conditions. Moving out from the overhang and getting established in the final crack proved difficult and tenuous. It snowed...
Oskari lead it after a failed attempt by me. Got too pumped in the crux move. Then seconded it, but was too tired and took me a couple of goes to get the move.
with Oskari
Oskari lead it after a failed attempt by me. Got too pumped in the crux move. Then seconded it, but was too tired and took me a couple of goes to get the move.
Hard climbing with bomber gear. Fell off the upper jamming crack, pumped after placing a cam in the nick of time! I think I missed a crucial small pocket which my seconds seemed to find with relative ease. Definitely worth as many stars Knight's Move.
with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley
Hard climbing with bomber gear. Fell off the upper jamming crack, pumped after placing a cam in the nick of time! I think I missed a crucial small pocket which my seconds seemed to find with relative ease. Definitely worth as many stars Knight's Move.
traversed miles right before the top crack with about 8 'mates' below not mentioning it went straight up, leaving me hugely pumped and exposed before coming back on line and finishing with loads of rope drag due to off line gear... with a huge hangover and no sleep.
traversed miles right before the top crack with about 8 'mates' below not mentioning it went straight up, leaving me hugely pumped and exposed before coming back on line and finishing with loads of rope drag due to off line gear... with a huge hangover and no sleep.
After having found Hollyash Crack and Knight's Move really easy I jumped on this as it started to rain and proceded to have a mare. I struggled around the corner to one of the most awkward positions I've ever placed gear in. Eventually I got a nut in the crack, whilst fearing for my life, but it was too deep to clip the quickdraw onto so I clipped the draw onto the whole set of nuts. Three moves later one end of the half rope got stuck on the nuts and I had to untie it to finish! What a mess!
with Paul Birk, Katy Whitehead, Sarah Jane Barr
After having found Hollyash Crack and Knight's Move really easy I jumped on this as it started to rain and proceded to have a mare. I struggled around the corner to one of the most awkward positions I've ever placed gear in. Eventually I got a nut in the crack, whilst fearing for my life, but it was too deep to clip the quickdraw onto so I clipped the draw onto the whole set of nuts. Three moves later one end of the half rope got stuck on the nuts and I had to untie it to finish! What a mess!
Worrying move out at lip, even more worrying off-balance attempt to get gear in once over it! Great route though, first VS lead, felt like a tricky one to start on!
with Noddy
Worrying move out at lip, even more worrying off-balance attempt to get gear in once over it! Great route though, first VS lead, felt like a tricky one to start on!
There is a jammed friend at the end of the traverse, managed to clip the sling on this before going for the traverse and getting established on the arete! The friend also stops your ropes getting jammed, I think this is HVS
There is a jammed friend at the end of the traverse, managed to clip the sling on this before going for the traverse and getting established on the arete! The friend also stops your ropes getting jammed, I think this is HVS
To my shame rested before I even got to the move up around the roof---pumped by poor gear planning (had placed the desired cam already so hung around working out `what to do'---duh). The move up is far easier than it looks initially!
with Ron Dempster
To my shame rested before I even got to the move up around the roof---pumped by poor gear planning (had placed the desired cam already so hung around working out `what to do'---duh). The move up is far easier than it looks initially!
Outstanding climb! The traverse then the gymnastics to get established in the upper crack are simply superb. The upper crack is no doddle either. Best climb of the day.
with Paul Day
Outstanding climb! The traverse then the gymnastics to get established in the upper crack are simply superb. The upper crack is no doddle either. Best climb of the day.
Really nice route this, the whole crag was swarming so we thought we would try something that we probably wouldn't get better conditions for, plus everything else was taken! It brought back grim memories of a route I did a couple of days previously at Stanage Plantation/Popular which I had to retreat off due to not being able to read/pissing it down with rain. The rain was looking a similar prospect for this one! Up the back crack with a bomber hex and plenty of solid jams is easy. I stepped out left, placed a size 1 cam and 6 nut about a 1/3rd of the way along the break. Made sure I wouldn't get too much rope drag and clipped. Jam in left hand side, take a hold in the tallest bit of the break, feet on and walk hands along carefully but hurridly! Actually found turning the lip not too bad. High right foot on the arete, undercut the bottom of the crack and layback the top past the lip and a bit of a rock over onto right foot, then there is some solid jams whilst you put some gear in past the lip. Once established on this is nice pleasent easy jamming. VS 4c maybe? I guess it might just about warrant 5a. 2 stars, would possibly be 3 if not so green and traverse a bit longer!
with Mike Saul (Dad), Matt
Really nice route this, the whole crag was swarming so we thought we would try something that we probably wouldn't get better conditions for, plus everything else was taken! It brought back grim memories of a route I did a couple of days previously at Stanage Plantation/Popular which I had to retreat off due to not being able to read/pissing it down with rain. The rain was looking a similar prospect for this one! Up the back crack with a bomber hex and plenty of solid jams is easy. I stepped out left, placed a size 1 cam and 6 nut about a 1/3rd of the way along the break. Made sure I wouldn't get too much rope drag and clipped. Jam in left hand side, take a hold in the tallest bit of the break, feet on and walk hands along carefully but hurridly! Actually found turning the lip not too bad. High right foot on the arete, undercut the bottom of the crack and layback the top past the lip and a bit of a rock over onto right foot, then there is some solid jams whilst you put some gear in past the lip. Once established on this is nice pleasent easy jamming. VS 4c maybe? I guess it might just about warrant 5a. 2 stars, would possibly be 3 if not so green and traverse a bit longer!
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