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14m.

Rockfax Description
The long crack is tricky in its central section. A good intro to off-widths, it can be face climbed too. Huge cams might help. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Dover 1932.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Wide Cracks, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, Chatsworth to Bamford, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Burbage North VS Challenge (Rockfax Eastern Grit)

Feedback

User Date Notes
climberblake 4 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Did it without large cams. If you keep your cool the jamming is secure, but my belayer was ready to run before I'd placed new gear above the off-width section
 
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βeta: Did it without large cams. If you keep your cool the jamming is secure, but my belayer was ready to run before I'd placed new gear above the off-width section
Daz H 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Defeated also (that's twice now). The climbing's ok, you can get really secure leg jams all the way up the crack, but it gets quite scary if you don't have huge cams to protect it (I didn't).
βeta?
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βeta: Defeated also (that's twice now). The climbing's ok, you can get really secure leg jams all the way up the crack, but it gets quite scary if you don't have huge cams to protect it (I didn't).
wilkie14c 9 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: don't worry too much about 'squeeking' your boots - worry if your leg's gonna fit the crack!!
βeta?
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βeta: don't worry too much about 'squeeking' your boots - worry if your leg's gonna fit the crack!!
Offwidth 25 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe I better upgrade this on my "Offwidth" site as everyone seems to find it harder than I expected. I climbed it in trainers in the rain once to retreive runners from a VS novice who nearly onsighted it when wet. Offwidths and knee bars...a lost skill. As VS 4b's go its reasonably protected without huge gear (just look).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maybe I better upgrade this on my "Offwidth" site as everyone seems to find it harder than I expected. I climbed it in trainers in the rain once to retreive runners from a VS novice who nearly onsighted it when wet. Offwidths and knee bars...a lost skill. As VS 4b's go its reasonably protected without huge gear (just look).
will_benfold 26 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Defeated! Got a #9 rockcentric in about 3m or 4m up. Squirmed up to crux via repeated knee/thigh/arm jams/torquing. Got knee stuck, got tired, slithered down to holds just above gear. Rested, repeated, gave up, lowered off. On reflection, some huge cams would have been been a good idea, as would wearing trousers. Definitely felt harder than 4b, although maybe I focussed too much on the crack.
βeta?
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βeta: Defeated! Got a #9 rockcentric in about 3m or 4m up. Squirmed up to crux via repeated knee/thigh/arm jams/torquing. Got knee stuck, got tired, slithered down to holds just above gear. Rested, repeated, gave up, lowered off. On reflection, some huge cams would have been been a good idea, as would wearing trousers. Definitely felt harder than 4b, although maybe I focussed too much on the crack.
Si dH 1 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: my climbing partner used a rockcentric 8 at 3rd height and a friend 6 (yes huge!) at 2/3 height to protect this. I got my kneee stuck at the crux and had some problems, but on the whole ok for the grade id say, as long as you can do offwidths.
βeta?
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βeta: my climbing partner used a rockcentric 8 at 3rd height and a friend 6 (yes huge!) at 2/3 height to protect this. I got my kneee stuck at the crux and had some problems, but on the whole ok for the grade id say, as long as you can do offwidths.
john irving 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Knee jams make it easy. 4 camalot makes it safe.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route. Knee jams make it easy. 4 camalot makes it safe.
Simon Caldwell 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Forget the large cams, the crucial protection is provided by a small cam and a micro wire. My second just laybacked the crux, made it look simple. Superb line and excellent climbing throughout.
βeta?
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βeta: Forget the large cams, the crucial protection is provided by a small cam and a micro wire. My second just laybacked the crux, made it look simple. Superb line and excellent climbing throughout.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: No need to offwidth just layback and use the face holds. if you get scared jam a foot and take a well earned rest.
βeta?
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βeta: No need to offwidth just layback and use the face holds. if you get scared jam a foot and take a well earned rest.

Logged Ascents

1653 users have logged this
60 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 175
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 165
Votes cast 165
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Byne's Crack

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Burbage South Edge)