Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The long crack is tricky in its central section. A good intro to off-widths, it can be face climbed too. Big gear needed. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Dover 1932.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Wide Cracks , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , Chatsworth to Bamford , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Burbage North VS Challenge (Rockfax Eastern Grit) , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Burbage Starred VS , Burbage Valley Circuit VD to VS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simas87 | 16 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: To protect the off-width crack the DMM Dragon cams size 5, 6, 7 and 8 will be needed. Placements will be in the order listed! Absolute minimum is size 6 and 7! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: To protect the off-width crack the DMM Dragon cams size 5, 6, 7 and 8 will be needed. Placements will be in the order listed! Absolute minimum is size 6 and 7! |
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| THE.WALRUS | 17 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Tough and difficult to protect (without a big cam)...unless you've skilled in the dark arts. | ||
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βeta: Tough and difficult to protect (without a big cam)...unless you've skilled in the dark arts. |
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| mr random | 30 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Big cams (7ish) will make it much more manageable. Some small cams can be wiggled in with difficulty. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Big cams (7ish) will make it much more manageable. Some small cams can be wiggled in with difficulty. |
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| climberblake | 4 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: Did it without large cams. If you keep your cool the jamming is secure, but my belayer was ready to run before I\'d placed new gear above the off-width section | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Did it without large cams. If you keep your cool the jamming is secure, but my belayer was ready to run before I'd placed new gear above the off-width section |
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| Daz H | 19 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defeated also (that's twice now). The climbing's ok, you can get really secure leg jams all the way up the crack, but it gets quite scary if you don't have huge cams to protect it (I didn't). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Defeated also (that's twice now). The climbing's ok, you can get really secure leg jams all the way up the crack, but it gets quite scary if you don't have huge cams to protect it (I didn't). |
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| wilkie14c | 9 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: don't worry too much about 'squeeking' your boots - worry if your leg's gonna fit the crack!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: don't worry too much about 'squeeking' your boots - worry if your leg's gonna fit the crack!! |
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| Offwidth | 25 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Maybe I better upgrade this on my "Offwidth" site as everyone seems to find it harder than I expected. I climbed it in trainers in the rain once to retreive runners from a VS novice who nearly onsighted it when wet. Offwidths and knee bars...a lost skill. As VS 4b's go its reasonably protected without huge gear (just look). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Maybe I better upgrade this on my "Offwidth" site as everyone seems to find it harder than I expected. I climbed it in trainers in the rain once to retreive runners from a VS novice who nearly onsighted it when wet. Offwidths and knee bars...a lost skill. As VS 4b's go its reasonably protected without huge gear (just look). |
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| will_benfold | 26 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Defeated! Got a #9 rockcentric in about 3m or 4m up. Squirmed up to crux via repeated knee/thigh/arm jams/torquing. Got knee stuck, got tired, slithered down to holds just above gear. Rested, repeated, gave up, lowered off. On reflection, some huge cams would have been been a good idea, as would wearing trousers. Definitely felt harder than 4b, although maybe I focussed too much on the crack. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Defeated! Got a #9 rockcentric in about 3m or 4m up. Squirmed up to crux via repeated knee/thigh/arm jams/torquing. Got knee stuck, got tired, slithered down to holds just above gear. Rested, repeated, gave up, lowered off. On reflection, some huge cams would have been been a good idea, as would wearing trousers. Definitely felt harder than 4b, although maybe I focussed too much on the crack. |
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| Si dH | 1 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: my climbing partner used a rockcentric 8 at 3rd height and a friend 6 (yes huge!) at 2/3 height to protect this. I got my kneee stuck at the crux and had some problems, but on the whole ok for the grade id say, as long as you can do offwidths. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: my climbing partner used a rockcentric 8 at 3rd height and a friend 6 (yes huge!) at 2/3 height to protect this. I got my kneee stuck at the crux and had some problems, but on the whole ok for the grade id say, as long as you can do offwidths. |
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| john irving | 6 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Excellent route. Knee jams make it easy. 4 camalot makes it safe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route. Knee jams make it easy. 4 camalot makes it safe. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Forget the large cams, the crucial protection is provided by a small cam and a micro wire. My second just laybacked the crux, made it look simple. Superb line and excellent climbing throughout. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Forget the large cams, the crucial protection is provided by a small cam and a micro wire. My second just laybacked the crux, made it look simple. Superb line and excellent climbing throughout. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: No need to offwidth just layback and use the face holds. if you get scared jam a foot and take a well earned rest. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No need to offwidth just layback and use the face holds. if you get scared jam a foot and take a well earned rest. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage North
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The File
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Higgar Tor)