UKC

Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

10m.

Rockfax Description
Fine technical climbing up the blank arching wall. Use a couple of chipped pockets on the right to climb the lower leaning wall leftwards, pass the bulge via wild mantel and finish direct. It is popular when there is a snow drift and it can be highballed at f7A. There is even a left-hand version called Snow Blind Mice, f7B - this hasn't yet been done 'snow-less'. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Pegg (solo) 1994.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , The Shock Of The New , Consumed , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , crimperE6 , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24

Feedback

User Date Notes
JR 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: IRT: Jon Read Maybe it should read, hard for the long legged. Getting feet up over the bulge to stand up is tough. Lower moves easier for the tall though i would imagine. IRT: Chris Craggs I assume you mean the undercut like chip just below the bulge. Its been there for as long as i have looked at the route whihc is about 2 years. Not sure whether it is actually a chip or just a bit of gritstone oddness. You don't need it at allll however to climb the route, so would seem odd to chip it there.
βeta?
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βeta: IRT: Jon Read Maybe it should read, hard for the long legged. Getting feet up over the bulge to stand up is tough. Lower moves easier for the tall though i would imagine. IRT: Chris Craggs I assume you mean the undercut like chip just below the bulge. Its been there for as long as i have looked at the route whihc is about 2 years. Not sure whether it is actually a chip or just a bit of gritstone oddness. You don't need it at allll however to climb the route, so would seem odd to chip it there.
JR 25 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Harder for the tall i reckon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder for the tall i reckon

Logged Ascents

79 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 16
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arriving Somewhere but Not Here

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Rivelin Quarries)

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