UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
A oddly-named route up the wide crack in the slabby angle. Awkward but large gear, big feet and determination all help. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Macleod 1934.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Burbage South Edge, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Albie 14 Jun Show βeta
βeta: How the hell is this only VS. I totally struggled to half way up. Saved the no 4 cam and put it as high as possible as the crack just widens but could not climb passed. Bailed and let my E2 partner have a bash. He struggled up but found no gear at the horizontal break and exited with nothing other than the big cam at half height. An utterly desperate and dangerous climb for a VS climber.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How the hell is this only VS. I totally struggled to half way up. Saved the no 4 cam and put it as high as possible as the crack just widens but could not climb passed. Bailed and let my E2 partner have a bash. He struggled up but found no gear at the horizontal break and exited with nothing other than the big cam at half height. An utterly desperate and dangerous climb for a VS climber.
Jessierosemcguire 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Found the route scary... Awkward and foot jams not great.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the route scary... Awkward and foot jams not great.
paul mitchell 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: High time this was graded hvs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: High time this was graded hvs.
lithos 4 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: bloody hell what a fight, really nice at the bottom, I thought i could layback it but too slippery for hands. Shorts and t-shirt are not idea (as I can testify), but a rack of friend 5s is !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody hell what a fight, really nice at the bottom, I thought i could layback it but too slippery for hands. Shorts and t-shirt are not idea (as I can testify), but a rack of friend 5s is !
Fidget 25 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with dave F that the overhanging face on the left makes the slab look more slabby. I made it half way up the slab (after downclimbing to the ledge a couple of times), put one foot on the slab and went a bit mental! Put both feet back in the crag and udged up a bit further but I couldn't bring myself to let go of the chockstone. Eventually ran out of energy and slithered down for a while before shouting take and then beating up the slab a bit. And I even think I can udge! I abbed for my gear, to discover there doesn't even appear to be any gear in the upper break, so kind of glad I didn't actually get that far.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with dave F that the overhanging face on the left makes the slab look more slabby. I made it half way up the slab (after downclimbing to the ledge a couple of times), put one foot on the slab and went a bit mental! Put both feet back in the crag and udged up a bit further but I couldn't bring myself to let go of the chockstone. Eventually ran out of energy and slithered down for a while before shouting take and then beating up the slab a bit. And I even think I can udge! I abbed for my gear, to discover there doesn't even appear to be any gear in the upper break, so kind of glad I didn't actually get that far.
mattyP 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Glad to see it wasn#t just me bottling it on this route :-D Mmmm.... Never did like real climbing always was more of a boulderer... maybe its cos i can't jam....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Glad to see it wasn#t just me bottling it on this route :-D Mmmm.... Never did like real climbing always was more of a boulderer... maybe its cos i can't jam....
Mick B 24 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route but no pushover. The slab mysteriously tilts itself steeper while you`re doing the bottom moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route but no pushover. The slab mysteriously tilts itself steeper while you`re doing the bottom moves.
featuresforfeet 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Attempted first VS lead - failed. Got foot stuck in the crack and concern for leaving behind in a fall took over. Have left some skin up there for the rest of you.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Attempted first VS lead - failed. Got foot stuck in the crack and concern for leaving behind in a fall took over. Have left some skin up there for the rest of you.
G. Tiger, Esq. 7 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: agree with taping up ankles, not a route to do wearing shorts, as my knees soon found out. bottled it on teh lead, so did my mate, so i went back and finished it second go, glad i did it's a really worthwhile route. and there's gear higher up the slab if you reach out to the pocket
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: agree with taping up ankles, not a route to do wearing shorts, as my knees soon found out. bottled it on teh lead, so did my mate, so i went back and finished it second go, glad i did it's a really worthwhile route. and there's gear higher up the slab if you reach out to the pocket
Iggy_B 28 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Damnit I wanted that slab! I'll have to cross it off my huge list of unclimbed lines in the peak!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Damnit I wanted that slab! I'll have to cross it off my huge list of unclimbed lines in the peak!
crazydiamond 18 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I shit myself, the biggest i had was size 3 hex... and im crap at jamming and have small legs and am skinny.... It felt like 5a at least to me.... o well...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I shit myself, the biggest i had was size 3 hex... and im crap at jamming and have small legs and am skinny.... It felt like 5a at least to me.... o well...
Jon Greengrass 17 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: after gaining the ledge handjam through the overlap, fist jam to get your feet up on the slab,jam left foot in smear high with your right and bring your left leg up in a knee jam. Take both hands off wave to the crowds and continue to the summit. if your biggest gear is a friend 4 you're highest gear will be about half height!
Show beta
βeta: after gaining the ledge handjam through the overlap, fist jam to get your feet up on the slab,jam left foot in smear high with your right and bring your left leg up in a knee jam. Take both hands off wave to the crowds and continue to the summit. if your biggest gear is a friend 4 you're highest gear will be about half height!
Monk 19 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The overhanging face next to it makes the slab look a lot less steep than it really is. Good route but I'm glad I had a camelot 4!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The overhanging face next to it makes the slab look a lot less steep than it really is. Good route but I'm glad I had a camelot 4!
johncoxmysteriously 15 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: About Severe. If you think this a horror then oh boy do you have a lot to learn about gritstone unpleasantnesses
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: About Severe. If you think this a horror then oh boy do you have a lot to learn about gritstone unpleasantnesses
thebigfriendlymoose 14 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: fun but strenuous - the crack became difficult to cam and I found myself some way above any reliable gear, relying on thigh-jams and wriggling to ascend!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fun but strenuous - the crack became difficult to cam and I found myself some way above any reliable gear, relying on thigh-jams and wriggling to ascend!
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The wide crack swallows all large cams. Layback it if you can and jam/arm-bar/thrutch it if you can't. Don't make the mistake I did - wearing approach shoes instead of rock boots doesn't help in either jamming the crack or smearing on the slab!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The wide crack swallows all large cams. Layback it if you can and jam/arm-bar/thrutch it if you can't. Don't make the mistake I did - wearing approach shoes instead of rock boots doesn't help in either jamming the crack or smearing on the slab!

Logged Ascents

603 users have logged this
82 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 101
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Mall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Millstone Edge)
Loading Notifications...