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USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
The easiest line up the wall following a good natural line, that was seriously undergraded at VS 4c, and is actually E2 5a. Start on a turf stance part way up the corner, and climb the distinct flake to a ledge on the right. A crucial small friend on this ledge is the only gear for committing and serious slopey slab moves to gain the ramp up and left, and proper gear 10m after the ledge. Teeter left and finish carefully up the rib.
Ticklists
South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
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Guidebooks for Carn Gowla
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Route of Interest
Till Dreaming's Done
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Maer Cliff (aka Northcott Mouth))