UKC

Rockfax Description
A very spectacular and exposed traverse of the Triple Buttress that has the benefit of being non-tidal and a good distance above the sea at all times. However, the situations are serious and the rock needs careful handling with regard to both the climbing and the setting up of belays. Take plenty of slings for tying-off bollards, spikes and threads. Start above a ramp on the landward side of the descent to the top of C Buttress.
1) 22m. Downclimb the easy ramp to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 21m. Move down the ramp for a further 5m then climb leftwards up the wall until level with the belay. Move up again before traversing left steeply to the arete and a belay just beyond.
3) 4c, 20m. Step down and move across grooves to a corner. Descend the wall left to an exposed stance and belay on the arete.
4) 4c, 40m. A wild-looking pitch for both leader and second. Traverse into the corner and traverse left across its opposite wall above an overhang to an arete. Move up the arete for 6m to a stance and belay.
5) 4c, 25m. Move up and climb leftwards to reach and climb a diagonal line across the wall until steeper moves lead to a position just before a big corner. Finish straight up via the left-hand side of a block. Stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

HVS Adventures , West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Traverses of trady radness

Feedback

User Date Notes
monsteratt 1 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I went too low on the second pitch beneath the small roof low down and ended up at a good below directly beneath the correct stance. Was able to do a gentle rising traverse to rejoin at the correct belay on the large spikes on the arete. Probably a similar grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I went too low on the second pitch beneath the small roof low down and ended up at a good below directly beneath the correct stance. Was able to do a gentle rising traverse to rejoin at the correct belay on the large spikes on the arete. Probably a similar grade.
leadmat 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Ran out of time due to wrong ramp descended first, fading light and increasing windchill. Got to third belay area and climbed out. When I feeing brave enough will be back
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ran out of time due to wrong ramp descended first, fading light and increasing windchill. Got to third belay area and climbed out. When I feeing brave enough will be back

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Saxon Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)

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