Rockfax Description
The arching corner is a magnificent line and is climbed in two very long and sustained pitches. Some big cams and nuts are needed to protect the first pitch. Start at the base of the corner.1) 5a, 42m. Ascend the corner until it starts to steepen and widen. Climb the wide crack to a flake from where easier climbing gains a big ledge on the left and a belay.2) 5b, 50m. Climb the corner and its subsidiary to its end. Traverse right across the slab on small holds stepping down at a steepening to a pillar of compact red rock and better holds. Move up to small ledges (the site of an old belay) and continue for 5m before stepping right to a weakness in the overhang above. Climb up this and the easy groove above to the top.2a) 4c, 50m. An easier but poorer finish moves left around the arete from the belay ledge and then climbs up the wall above the edge of the arete on big, but at times dubious, holds to a grassy final 10m. © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Pre-departure , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FinnBar | 15 May |
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βeta: Peregrines are nesting on the block above the traverse on P2. Line doesn’t go that close but maybe give the route a miss until they’ve fledged. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Peregrines are nesting on the block above the traverse on P2. Line doesn’t go that close but maybe give the route a miss until they’ve fledged. |
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| markalmack | 22 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: We got to the start of the route with a 75m (dynamic) rope, with plenty to spare... dunno what rockfax is on about the 110m ab?!? | βeta? | |
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βeta: We got to the start of the route with a 75m (dynamic) rope, with plenty to spare... dunno what rockfax is on about the 110m ab?!? |
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| robgixer | 15 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Very adventurous route, finding where to abseil in and place rope to belay on, and then the actual climbing! Very bold on P2 after leaving the corner, hardest part offwidth on first pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very adventurous route, finding where to abseil in and place rope to belay on, and then the actual climbing! Very bold on P2 after leaving the corner, hardest part offwidth on first pitch |
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| JoeCoxson | 19 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Gull\'s nest on the belay, worth leaving for a few weeks | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gull's nest on the belay, worth leaving for a few weeks |
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| David Coley | 12 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Amazing route. Some 4,5 and even size 6 cams make the first pitch HVS. Otherwise it's E1 5a. Overall this route is possibly best expressed as E2 5a, or E3 5b due to its emotional content and the difficulty of escape | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Amazing route. Some 4,5 and even size 6 cams make the first pitch HVS. Otherwise it's E1 5a. Overall this route is possibly best expressed as E2 5a, or E3 5b due to its emotional content and the difficulty of escape |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Carn Gowla
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Ocean Of Fears
Grade: E2 5a ***
(Pentire Point)