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Rockfax Description
The arching corner is a magnificent line and is climbed in two very long and sustained pitches. Some big cams and nuts are needed to protect the first pitch. Start at the base of the corner.
1) 5a, 42m. Ascend the corner until it starts to steepen and widen. Climb the wide crack to a flake from where easier climbing gains a big ledge on the left and a belay.
2) 5b, 50m. Climb the corner and its subsidiary to its end. Traverse right across the slab on small holds stepping down at a steepening to a pillar of compact red rock and better holds. Move up to small ledges (the site of an old belay) and continue for 5m before stepping right to a weakness in the overhang above. Climb up this and the easy groove above to the top.
2a) 4c, 50m. An easier but poorer finish moves left around the arete from the belay ledge and then climbs up the wall above the edge of the arete on big, but at times dubious, holds to a grassy final 10m. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Pre-departure

Feedback

User Date Notes
markalmack 22 Jul Show βeta
βeta: We got to the start of the route with a 75m (dynamic) rope, with plenty to spare... dunno what rockfax is on about the 110m ab?!?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We got to the start of the route with a 75m (dynamic) rope, with plenty to spare... dunno what rockfax is on about the 110m ab?!?
robgixer 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very adventurous route, finding where to abseil in and place rope to belay on, and then the actual climbing! Very bold on P2 after leaving the corner, hardest part offwidth on first pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very adventurous route, finding where to abseil in and place rope to belay on, and then the actual climbing! Very bold on P2 after leaving the corner, hardest part offwidth on first pitch
JoeCoxson 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Gull's nest on the belay, worth leaving for a few weeks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gull's nest on the belay, worth leaving for a few weeks
David Coley 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route. Some 4,5 and even size 6 cams make the first pitch HVS. Otherwise it's E1 5a. Overall this route is possibly best expressed as E2 5a, or E3 5b due to its emotional content and the difficulty of escape
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route. Some 4,5 and even size 6 cams make the first pitch HVS. Otherwise it's E1 5a. Overall this route is possibly best expressed as E2 5a, or E3 5b due to its emotional content and the difficulty of escape

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Earthly Powers

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Whirl Pool Buttress)