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USER ATTENTION

3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.

from 03/03/0023

Rockfax Description
The arching corner is a magnificent line and is climbed in two very long and sustained pitches. Some big cams and nuts are needed to protect the first pitch. Start at the base of the corner.

1) 5a, 42m. Ascend the corner until it starts to steepen and widen. Climb the wide crack to a flake from where easier climbing gains a big ledge on the left and a belay.
2) 5b, 50m. Climb up the arching corner and its subsidiary with good and plentiful gear until all most at its end. Make a bold traverse right, across the slab to a steep red pillar (peg with micro cam backup). Climb up on good holds past a small ledge, and then head diagonally right to the roof above, and pass it at a weakness on the right. Finish carefully up an easy groove to reach the pre-placed rope.
2a) 4c, 50m. An easier but poorer finish moves left around the arete from the belay ledge and then climbs up the wall above the edge of the arete on big, but at times dubious, holds to a grassy final 10m. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Pre-departure , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West in Extremis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , Road to lundy , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulTanton 10 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This crag is covered by a bird ban, march to end of July. Take note for next year people
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This crag is covered by a bird ban, march to end of July. Take note for next year people
Iain Weymouth 9 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: From cliff top edge below the ab bluff to bottom ledge is 57m. We used another static to connect a 60m static a couple of metres from the edge. Start ab from gully which is fine once you've set off!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: From cliff top edge below the ab bluff to bottom ledge is 57m. We used another static to connect a 60m static a couple of metres from the edge. Start ab from gully which is fine once you've set off!
FinnBar 15 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Peregrines are nesting on the block above the traverse on P2. Line doesn’t go that close but maybe give the route a miss until they’ve fledged.
Show beta
βeta: Peregrines are nesting on the block above the traverse on P2. Line doesn’t go that close but maybe give the route a miss until they’ve fledged.
markalmack 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: We got to the start of the route with a 75m (dynamic) rope, with plenty to spare... dunno what rockfax is on about the 110m ab?!?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We got to the start of the route with a 75m (dynamic) rope, with plenty to spare... dunno what rockfax is on about the 110m ab?!?
robgixer 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very adventurous route, finding where to abseil in and place rope to belay on, and then the actual climbing! Very bold on P2 after leaving the corner, hardest part offwidth on first pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Very adventurous route, finding where to abseil in and place rope to belay on, and then the actual climbing! Very bold on P2 after leaving the corner, hardest part offwidth on first pitch
JoeCoxson 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Gull\'s nest on the belay, worth leaving for a few weeks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gull's nest on the belay, worth leaving for a few weeks
David Coley 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route. Some 4,5 and even size 6 cams make the first pitch HVS. Otherwise it's E1 5a. Overall this route is possibly best expressed as E2 5a, or E3 5b due to its emotional content and the difficulty of escape
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route. Some 4,5 and even size 6 cams make the first pitch HVS. Otherwise it's E1 5a. Overall this route is possibly best expressed as E2 5a, or E3 5b due to its emotional content and the difficulty of escape

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Carn Gowla

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Xanadu

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Great Zawn)

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