Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 June to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

It has been reported that either Peregrines or Kesterels are nesting on the popular route Shadow Wall on Carreg Wastad, with eggs and one unfledged chick on the nest.

As these birds and their nests are legally protected, climbers are asked to avoid climbing the routes Shadow Wall to Trilon inclusive until the birds have fledged at the end of July. 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Don't be put off by the scrappy start - the traverse under the roof is not to be missed.
1) 4a, 27m. Scramble up to the base of groove to a spike below the large tree (possible belay) and continue up the groove to belay under the roof.
2) 4c, 15m. Make a series of repetitive moves up and rightwards on the series of ledges below the roof until a final committing move round the end of the roof gains a rib. This leads to a tree belay and most people abseil off from here.
3) 8m. Climb easily up leftwards to the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the rather dirty and vegetated crack to belay just before or at roof. Traverse right ascending to second step and then tricky move around corner on jugs for hands but nothing for feet. Move past tree / abseil point to top


100 More Classic British VS Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , CUMC Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , BSR multipitch routes , North Wales To Do List


User Date Notes
Emlyn Price 23 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Nesting Kestrel currently on the abb station , route best avoided for a time.
Show beta
βeta: Nesting Kestrel currently on the abb station , route best avoided for a time.
Rad Elliot 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Boss. Some exposed moves
Show beta
βeta: Boss. Some exposed moves

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 177
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 170
Votes cast 164
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Creagh Dhu Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))

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