UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

53m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Engrossing and varied climbing up the right-hand side of the buttress. The initial slab is often damp and needs a little afternoon sun on it to dry it out. In these conditions, the slightly harder Direct Start is a good option as it dries out quickly. Start in the deep shady corner on the right side of the buttress.
1) 5b, 13m. Move up and traverse leftwards across the slabby wall (spaced protection) to a small ledge below a left-facing corner that rises to the stepped overhang. Make some difficult moves up the corner and pull over the overhang, then continue to a stance just beneath the next overhang.
Direct Start, E2 5c - The thin crack/seam up the slab to join the parent route at its small ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall on the left to another overlap and traverse a crack steeply left until it is possible to pull up through yet another small overlap onto the wall above. Climb the wall via the most obvious crack to a good ledge.
3) 20m. Finish easily up and left to the summit of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Kernow , West Country Climbs , MIA logbook must haves! , Ultimate E1 ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Extreme 2018 , Hard Rock 2020 , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Pre-departure , Cornwall 2021 , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Kernow , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Cornwall - October 2023 , Llidberis South West Tour

Feedback

User Date Notes
Problybeokthat 27 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great granit e1 !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great granit e1 !
DaveThexton 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Best to link pitch 1 and 2. Some fun moves on both.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best to link pitch 1 and 2. Some fun moves on both.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 106
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 105
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Sackful of Clowns

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)

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