Rockfax Description
The second pitch gives some exhilarating fly-on-the-wall climbing. Start on a good ledge around 10m up from the bottom of East Gully. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.
1) 4b, 12m. Take a red/black seam, initially on small holds, to better holds that lead left to a niche. Move up the corner above to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 20m. A great wall pitch. Climb directly up the bubbly wall past a wide break, and then up a short layaway crack to a good ledge and belay.
3) 5a, 7m. Climb the wall just right of Pendulum Chimney, and at a horizontal break, head up right to the arete and make a final couple of exposed moves to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4a, 10m. Move up a short wall to a big ledge. Climb the hairy wall until forced right into a wide crack and finish up this. © Rockfax

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