UKC

59m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Beautiful climbing and positions mark out this route as one of West Penwith's most sought-after VSs. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch. Start on a good ledge at a crack on the left wall of East Gully, around 10m up from the bottom of the crag.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge on the left. The ledge is just below where the crack thins.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the thin crack-system with difficulty, which soon eases, and continue up the crack to a large mushroom shaped blob. Use the blob to move right into a short corner and follow it to a stance on a good ledge.
3) 4c, 12m. Take the steep crack above, passing the last bulging section with difficulty. Move left to a stance and belay on a long ledge.
4) 4a, 13m. Move right and up behind a large perched block and follow cracks up a wall to the top of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Pre-MIA Wishlist, South West Classic VS's, Definitive *** West Cornwall, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020/21 Trips, Cornwall 2021, Cornwall

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User Date Notes
slowmotion 15 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description made more sense to me than CC guide
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description made more sense to me than CC guide
jfms 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder.

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Votes cast 151
High 5a
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 148
Votes cast 146
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

C Land Super

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Cligga Head)
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