Rockfax Description
The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. Start on ledges at the base of East Gully.
1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. The crack and wall on its left lead to a large belay ledge.
2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano-stained belay ledge.
3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.
4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche, from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.
5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Cornwall 2021 , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Chamomile Rose | 22 May |
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βeta: Very enjoyable | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable |
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Phil Lyon | 21 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn\'t take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn't take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. |
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Phil Lyon | 21 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn\'t take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn't take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. |
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scottdurrant | 13 May, 2022 |
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βeta: There is a gull nesting at the top of pitch 3 | ||
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βeta: There is a gull nesting at the top of pitch 3 |
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chudders1 | 30 May, 2021 |
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βeta: 1st pitch appears to have no gear unless you carry American size cams and there is a fulmar on belay ledge top of pitch four ! Probably won’t be very happy when chick hatches | ||
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βeta: 1st pitch appears to have no gear unless you carry American size cams and there is a fulmar on belay ledge top of pitch four ! Probably won’t be very happy when chick hatches |
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Fokka | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Stick to the right crack on the 3rd pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stick to the right crack on the 3rd pitch |
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