Rockfax Description
The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. The climbing is well-protected and can be climbed at highish tides during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.

1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. Take the crack that leads up left to a large belay ledge.
2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano stained belay ledge.
3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.
4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.
5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Cornwall 2021

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