UKC

59m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. Start on ledges at the base of East Gully.
1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. The crack and wall on its left lead to a large belay ledge.
2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano-stained belay ledge.
3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.
4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche, from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.
5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Llidberis South West Tour , Cornwall Trip 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chamomile Rose 22 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable
βeta?
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βeta: Very enjoyable
Phil Lyon 21 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn\'t take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward.
βeta?
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn't take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward.
Phil Lyon 21 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn\'t take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn't take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward.
scottdurrant 13 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is a gull nesting at the top of pitch 3
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βeta: There is a gull nesting at the top of pitch 3
chudders1 30 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch appears to have no gear unless you carry American size cams and there is a fulmar on belay ledge top of pitch four ! Probably won’t be very happy when chick hatches
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βeta: 1st pitch appears to have no gear unless you carry American size cams and there is a fulmar on belay ledge top of pitch four ! Probably won’t be very happy when chick hatches
Fokka 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stick to the right crack on the 3rd pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Stick to the right crack on the 3rd pitch

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Style of Ascent
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