UKC

6 pitches. Steeped in tradition. A big day out for most parties. E1 4c, 4b, 5b, 5a, 5b, 4c

Climbing this is only permitted during the winter season, between 1st October and 15th March.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , MIA logbook must haves! , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Cheddar Intermediate , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , Bristol Crack School , Hard Rock 2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock & Other Classics , So you think you’re a VS climber? , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
jackmorford 13 Nov Show βeta
βeta: The 5b pitches were hard, definitely high in the grade! I led pitches 2,3 and 5. Had a hard time trusting my feet, some very polished footholds kicking around. 3d climbing at times, mega route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 5b pitches were hard, definitely high in the grade! I led pitches 2,3 and 5. Had a hard time trusting my feet, some very polished footholds kicking around. 3d climbing at times, mega route!
Boomanreach 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Large wobbly block size of mini fridge next to the pegs at belay 3 (post traverse). Care is needed when handled should not be used for gear placement. Alternative nut placement can be found above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large wobbly block size of mini fridge next to the pegs at belay 3 (post traverse). Care is needed when handled should not be used for gear placement. Alternative nut placement can be found above.
Lankcroft 16 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Felt extremely green, especially the bottom pitch. We had to clear a path through the nettles to reach the base so I guess we were the first party up it since the ban ended - maybe it'll clean up with some more traffic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt extremely green, especially the bottom pitch. We had to clear a path through the nettles to reach the base so I guess we were the first party up it since the ban ended - maybe it'll clean up with some more traffic!
hpm2105 26 Dec, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: A much anticipated Boxing Day excursion. Nice weather, only cold when seconding, leading was fine. I led 1,4. P Welford led 2,3,5. Everything was going swimmingly until P Welford took a head down ~20m screamer just as he topped out into the sunshine (ripping gear and landing halfway down pitch 4). First pitch a bit long and muddy/polished. Shield was enjoyable. Final pitch was horrid and chossy hence massive whipper. In hindsight we probably went the wrong way up the crack rather than diagonally right. A Boxing Day Bruiser.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A much anticipated Boxing Day excursion. Nice weather, only cold when seconding, leading was fine. I led 1,4. P Welford led 2,3,5. Everything was going swimmingly until P Welford took a head down ~20m screamer just as he topped out into the sunshine (ripping gear and landing halfway down pitch 4). First pitch a bit long and muddy/polished. Shield was enjoyable. Final pitch was horrid and chossy hence massive whipper. In hindsight we probably went the wrong way up the crack rather than diagonally right. A Boxing Day Bruiser.
Richard Weller 13 Oct, 1984 Show βeta
βeta: Backed off the pull over the first roof the weekend before. Spent hte whole week back in London psyching myself up for it. Returned and cruised up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Backed off the pull over the first roof the weekend before. Spent hte whole week back in London psyching myself up for it. Returned and cruised up.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 153
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 146
Votes cast 143
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sullenberger (WW)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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