UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
One of Stanage's best VS climbs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a ledge. Continuing up the centre of the slab trending slightly right. Well protected with enough cams, though it used to be very bold. © Rockfax

FA. Albert Hargreaves 1928.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , 22 For 2022 , On Peak Rock , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , The Eal List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Top 25 routes , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Fav Climbs , Morgan's List

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User Date Notes
GaronSmith 26 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: What a journey this one.
Show beta
βeta: What a journey this one.
JayW 9 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic, long, slopy, requiring good footwork and a couple of long reaches with some fairly run-out sections. Medium sized cams will help.
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic, long, slopy, requiring good footwork and a couple of long reaches with some fairly run-out sections. Medium sized cams will help.
emmaharrington 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Slopey, balancy and long describes this route well. Bring plenty of cams.
Show beta
βeta: Slopey, balancy and long describes this route well. Bring plenty of cams.
BobRobert 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed it up until it started chucking down with rain and I started losing traction, I ran it out about 20 foot just to get off the thing. Used cams and a hex I believe.
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed it up until it started chucking down with rain and I started losing traction, I ran it out about 20 foot just to get off the thing. Used cams and a hex I believe.
Paul Tomo 8 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This climb was my warm up for Easter Rib, and very nice it was.
Show beta
βeta: This climb was my warm up for Easter Rib, and very nice it was.
howlingbaboon 26 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great slab! nice and long, one of my first VSs. I used: 1 nut, 6 cams, and 2/3 tricams. There's a couple of marginal placements on there which scared me somewhat with the sideways pull of my slightly zig-zag route.
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βeta: Great slab! nice and long, one of my first VSs. I used: 1 nut, 6 cams, and 2/3 tricams. There's a couple of marginal placements on there which scared me somewhat with the sideways pull of my slightly zig-zag route.
rayash 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: a great climb take at least five cams for peace of mind . Dont bother with hexes or wires , I didnt take them , just dozens of cams mostly medium sizes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a great climb take at least five cams for peace of mind . Dont bother with hexes or wires , I didnt take them , just dozens of cams mostly medium sizes
Luke01 18 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I did it without cams, just hexes and a wire. Little bit scary but more interesting than just plugging cams in.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did it without cams, just hexes and a wire. Little bit scary but more interesting than just plugging cams in.
LakesWinter 9 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is an in situ rusty pigeon on the top break, left of the fern bush
βeta?
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βeta: There is an in situ rusty pigeon on the top break, left of the fern bush
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i aggree with dave i did on a super hot day with hexes and wires, absolutely fantastic a great end to the day, thn off to the pub for a pint!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i aggree with dave i did on a super hot day with hexes and wires, absolutely fantastic a great end to the day, thn off to the pub for a pint!
leon 24 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a good route that's well protected. i rekon the traverse start is the hardest bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a good route that's well protected. i rekon the traverse start is the hardest bit.
Whealiebob 17 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Do it on a really hot day (at least 30 deg c)with no cams for a full E grade experience!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do it on a really hot day (at least 30 deg c)with no cams for a full E grade experience!!!
Monk 15 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You can place a whole rack of cams on this route from 0 to 4! Also at least 3 good hex placements. Fantastic route. Not too straight forward and keeps interest throughout. Amazing!
βeta?
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βeta: You can place a whole rack of cams on this route from 0 to 4! Also at least 3 good hex placements. Fantastic route. Not too straight forward and keeps interest throughout. Amazing!
Robo 10 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Take lots of cams! It's a little exposed otherwise...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take lots of cams! It's a little exposed otherwise...
Reds 5 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Albert - 1928!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Albert - 1928!

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Votes cast 549
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Low 5a
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Votes cast 510
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Delectable Variation

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lawrencefield)

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