Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Rockfax Description
The first of a great trio, although the lower wall is beginning to suffer from polish. Probably the most popular climb on the Cornice. Although the first wall has the hardest move, the top will sort out those lacking fitness. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1983. Led without the bolts by Nick Dixon 1984. Bolts gradually replaced over the years..
Ticklists
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Peak sport for mortals , Chee Dale Cornice - ultimate 7s ticklist , Lime trad for hobbyists , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jenjenshirlaw | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: had that post lockdown endurance... | βeta? | |
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βeta: had that post lockdown endurance... |
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| UKB Shark | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: The big jug above the first overlap is also flexing so best not to use it to clip higher bolt above. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The big jug above the first overlap is also flexing so best not to use it to clip higher bolt above. |
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| Toby Dunn | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: first two bolts looking very rusty at the moment -probably best to go carefully... | βeta? | |
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βeta: first two bolts looking very rusty at the moment -probably best to go carefully... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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![Jim [left] on Cairn, Steve about to step left for Great White](https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/246539?fm=jpg&time=1412026175&w=150&s=88b623acb9d904b5937033ba5d8a8703)
Cairn
Grade: 7a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)