Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Rockfax Description
The first of the routes up the River via a prominent blunt flake. Crossing the first bulge is tricky. The flake gives a shake out and the moves above are unobvious but okay when wired. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson, Matt Ward 1986.
Ticklists
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Festival Of Shite , Chee Dale Cornice - ultimate 7s ticklist , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
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Grade: 7b ***
(Chee Dale Upper)