UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

18m.

Rockfax Description
The hardest of the trio. Move up to an undercut pocket, then traverse right before breaking back out left to a boulder problem to gain the niche. Then climb the wall before heading out left to finish on the scarily-thin jug. © Rockfax

FA. Jon deMontjoye, Neil Foster 1989.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Peak sport for mortals , Chee Dale Cornice - ultimate 7s ticklist , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Willkilbey 11 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wet cold day was made better by getting on this gem. Dropped the last move after figuring out the moves. Quick tick next session! Feels as hard or harder than big zipper
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wet cold day was made better by getting on this gem. Dropped the last move after figuring out the moves. Quick tick next session! Feels as hard or harder than big zipper
simonrichardson 30 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A cracking route, a bit scary at the top if pumped. Certainly heading towards 7b.
Show beta
βeta: A cracking route, a bit scary at the top if pumped. Certainly heading towards 7b.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 143
Votes cast 122
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ember to Inferno

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)

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