UKC

Restricted Access

The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the  blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage. 

You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.  

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb - one of the best on the east coast - that climbs the orange sheet of flowstone which is usually chalked up. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jul/1994.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Portland , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Soft Touches , UK Flowstone , Pyramid to 8a+ , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
luis_jacobs 6 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A fridge sized block came off the ledge below the first bolt today, very narrowly missing the rope and belayer. Very lucky escape. Take a lot of care down there after the storm!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fridge sized block came off the ledge below the first bolt today, very narrowly missing the rope and belayer. Very lucky escape. Take a lot of care down there after the storm!
Kris suriyo 12 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qxY0MCx4bY&t=70s
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qxY0MCx4bY&t=70s

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cheyne Cliff

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Racing Line

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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