UKC

Rockfax Description
One of Chudleigh's well-worn favourites that follows the wide snaking crack left of Cow Cave. Start below a short 3m wall directly beneath the crack. Climb the wall to a ledge and take on the wide crack and its right wall with conviction. At its top, move left to a narrower section of crack that leads quickly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. T.Patey 1960.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , Bristol Crack School , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , Birds , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

Feedback

User Date Notes
katie_hodgey 29 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Raven/crow nest in the crack at about half height. Bees nest near the top so go right to the tree to avoid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Raven/crow nest in the crack at about half height. Bees nest near the top so go right to the tree to avoid.
Dave1987 19 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Wasps nest at the top, finish right to avoid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wasps nest at the top, finish right to avoid.
Graeme Hammond 30 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bees currently in top crack best traverse right at the top to avoid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bees currently in top crack best traverse right at the top to avoid
MGrock 20 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky route for the grade. Very polished and big cams needed to protect some of it. High in the grade.
Show beta
βeta: Tricky route for the grade. Very polished and big cams needed to protect some of it. High in the grade.
BuzyG 21 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun route.
drdave 22 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: It's not a nest, its a large English Ivy, which bees take most of their food from in the autumn. The bees shouldn't feel threatened, but the plant is virulent, and if not controlled, will take over the rockface. It is already spreading on the route, no doubt assisted by the lack of traffic this summer. Is gardening allowed?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's not a nest, its a large English Ivy, which bees take most of their food from in the autumn. The bees shouldn't feel threatened, but the plant is virulent, and if not controlled, will take over the rockface. It is already spreading on the route, no doubt assisted by the lack of traffic this summer. Is gardening allowed?
TimPWigley 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Looks more like a wasp nest than a bees nest. Finish right and belay off the tree and they leave you alone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks more like a wasp nest than a bees nest. Finish right and belay off the tree and they leave you alone.
jk29 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No bee nest at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No bee nest at the top.
JamesAS 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bee nest at the top on the left, but looks like everyone is finishing to the right to easily avoid it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bee nest at the top on the left, but looks like everyone is finishing to the right to easily avoid it.
Mlewis 6 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Large active bees nest on the last few meters. Easy to step to the right for a alternative fuel finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large active bees nest on the last few meters. Easy to step to the right for a alternative fuel finish.
Yeah Roy bmx 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: BEES NEST. In crack on the left of the airy step right below the last slab. Don’t get stung.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BEES NEST. In crack on the left of the airy step right below the last slab. Don’t get stung.
Slawek Noga 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: bee nest on the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bee nest on the top

Logged Ascents

732 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 57 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 71
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jollies Route

Grade: HVD ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

Loading Notifications...