UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
The direct line up the corner where Greenmantle moves right. Move up just right of the cave to a corner at 4m and continue direct until below a tree higher up the corner. Climb the corner on good holds, past the tree (possible belay) to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Explanatory note on route name: This popular climb was given a new name by the FA in summer 2020 at the request of contemporary website compilers & guidebook authors.

FA. S.Dawson, P.Butler Apr/1966. Route name changed (Offensive Reference).

Ticklists

S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars

Feedback

User Date Notes
petecallaghan 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Near the top of this route is a 1m spike which has become less attached to the face. It is rotating horizontally outwards and shows signs of recent movements. On inspection on 14/4/2020 it resisted removal, but it is detached. Loose vegetation and earth around it shows that it is recently mobile. Do not pull on it. If it falls it will hit the main access path below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Near the top of this route is a 1m spike which has become less attached to the face. It is rotating horizontally outwards and shows signs of recent movements. On inspection on 14/4/2020 it resisted removal, but it is detached. Loose vegetation and earth around it shows that it is recently mobile. Do not pull on it. If it falls it will hit the main access path below.
Dale Turrell 7 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: To avoid confusion: this route was named "Tar Baby" by the first ascensionist and appears under that name in existing guide books. It was renamed by the first ascensionist in 2020. The name is almost certainly not racially inspired or offensive but it seems that some people have interpreted it as such. Tar Baby is a character from the Uncle Remus folktales which is a literal doll made of tar and turpentine used by Br'er Fox to entrap Br'er Rabbit (characters the two routes next to this are named after).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To avoid confusion: this route was named "Tar Baby" by the first ascensionist and appears under that name in existing guide books. It was renamed by the first ascensionist in 2020. The name is almost certainly not racially inspired or offensive but it seems that some people have interpreted it as such. Tar Baby is a character from the Uncle Remus folktales which is a literal doll made of tar and turpentine used by Br'er Fox to entrap Br'er Rabbit (characters the two routes next to this are named after).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 40
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shangri-La

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

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