Rockfax Description
A rare commodity on UK limestone, a classic low-grade route. The polish is testimony to the route's popularity but does not spoil the experience. Start beneath the disjointed crack-line.
1) 10m. Climb the wall and cracks to a good small ledge and sound nut belays.
2) 18m. Pull up from the belay and move through the bulge leftwards with difficulty. Head straight up to the crack and follow it to a belay on top of a pillar.
3) 12m. Easy climbing leads leftwards to below an old garden wall. Nip up this to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Further to a reappraisal of historical info. in 2020, climbers serving with the Royal Marines are now believed to have established this popular and enjoyable climb, hence the rename.
It is commonly climbed in one pitch - it is usual to belay at the tree, then scramble out carefully up the wall. Although with a novice 2nd it is sensible to belay at the end of the described P2.
Take care with wire placements on the initial section, the slippery footholds can be unpredictable...
Aim to pass the mid. height bulge with good style and finesse, give your partner marks out of ten!
FA. uncertain - military servicemen 1960. Route name changed.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Star Diffs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dale Turrell | 7 Dec, 2020 |
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βeta: To avoid confusion: this route was named "Wogs" by the first ascensionist (in 1923) and appears under that name in existing guide books. It was renamed by BMC area meet in 2020. | βeta? | |
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βeta: To avoid confusion: this route was named "Wogs" by the first ascensionist (in 1923) and appears under that name in existing guide books. It was renamed by BMC area meet in 2020. |
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| RHINOS | 19 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: more polished than mr sheen. repeated after 20 years. almost fell off low down on muddy ledge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: more polished than mr sheen. repeated after 20 years. almost fell off low down on muddy ledge. |
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| Webster | 3 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: a wobbly jug can be found by the second bulge, dont place the obvious nuts here! there are plenty of others to be found | ||
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βeta: a wobbly jug can be found by the second bulge, dont place the obvious nuts here! there are plenty of others to be found |
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| victim of mathematics | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Incredibly polished, not very good and easily run into one long pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Incredibly polished, not very good and easily run into one long pitch. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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