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50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A lovely climb with plenty of charm and an exposed second pitch. Start at the base of a broad buttress with small twin caves at 7m.
1) 4a, 18m. Climb up to and out of the right-hand cave via an awkward move and continue to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 32m. Ascend the square-cut corner (just right of the main corner taken by Scar) for 4m and then move out right to the arete. Step around the arete to a small exposed ledge and climb the face right of the arete to a tree. A short wall above leads to easy climbing and the top. © Rockfax

FA. D.Bassett 1960.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pithedog 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Tree near top of pitch 2 is v.rotten.
βeta?
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βeta: Tree near top of pitch 2 is v.rotten.
Chaman 27 May Show βeta
βeta: Pigeon nesting in cave & birds nesting in Scar's crack May 2020
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βeta: Pigeon nesting in cave & birds nesting in Scar's crack May 2020
Peter271263 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good route
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βeta: Good route

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 72
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Central Groove

Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)