UKC

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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A lovely climb with an exposed second pitch. Start at the base of a broad buttress with small twin caves at 7m.
1) 4a, 18m. Climb up to and out of the right-hand cave via an awkward move and continue to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 32m. Ascend the square-cut corner (just right of the main corner taken by Scar) for 4m and then move out right to the arete. Step around the arete to a small exposed ledge and climb the face right of the arete to a tree. A short wall above leads to easy climbing and the top. © Rockfax

FA. D.Bassett 1960.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Neil Stuart 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The tree on pitch 2 is no more although this does not affect the grade
βeta?
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βeta: The tree on pitch 2 is no more although this does not affect the grade
Pithedog 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tree near top of pitch 2 is v.rotten.
βeta?
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βeta: Tree near top of pitch 2 is v.rotten.
Chaman 27 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pigeon nesting in cave & birds nesting in Scar\'s crack May 2020
βeta?
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βeta: Pigeon nesting in cave & birds nesting in Scar's crack May 2020
Peter271263 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good route
βeta?
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βeta: Good route

Logged Ascents

874 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 78
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Integrity

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lundy)

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