UKC

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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
24m.

Rockfax Description
The bending hand-crack in the overhanging white wall to the right of the corner of Sarcophagus is a great test of jamming technique and perseverance. Start beneath the crack.
Gain the overhanging hand-crack and push on to a rest in a roof-capped niche. Pull out right and climb up and left to join the finishing corner of Sarcophagus. © Rockfax

FA. B.Biven 1962.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Going Up Rocks , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
chris j 21 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: More usually, the finish is pull right out of the niche and move up and right to the Combined Ops bolt/peg belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: More usually, the finish is pull right out of the niche and move up and right to the Combined Ops bolt/peg belay.
chris j 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One for the peak raiders - once you're in the crack any competent grit climbers will be home & dry, unfortunately a little bit slippy getting up to the crack...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One for the peak raiders - once you're in the crack any competent grit climbers will be home & dry, unfortunately a little bit slippy getting up to the crack...
Davros the Psyched 1 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing is much more enjoyable than it looks from the ground. Exhausting stuff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbing is much more enjoyable than it looks from the ground. Exhausting stuff.

Logged Ascents

432 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 86 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 81
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Headline

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)

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