Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
The bending hand-crack in the overhanging white wall to the right of the corner of Sarcophagus is a great test of jamming technique and perseverance. Start beneath the crack.
Gain the overhanging hand-crack and push on to a rest in a roof-capped niche. Pull out right and climb up and left to join the finishing corner of Sarcophagus. © Rockfax
FA. B.Biven 1962.
West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Going Up Rocks , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
User | Date | Notes | ||
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chris j | 21 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: More usually, the finish is pull right out of the niche and move up and right to the Combined Ops bolt/peg belay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: More usually, the finish is pull right out of the niche and move up and right to the Combined Ops bolt/peg belay. |
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chris j | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: One for the peak raiders - once you're in the crack any competent grit climbers will be home & dry, unfortunately a little bit slippy getting up to the crack... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One for the peak raiders - once you're in the crack any competent grit climbers will be home & dry, unfortunately a little bit slippy getting up to the crack... |
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Davros the Psyched | 1 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: The climbing is much more enjoyable than it looks from the ground. Exhausting stuff. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The climbing is much more enjoyable than it looks from the ground. Exhausting stuff. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)