Rockfax Description
A great little route with a big reputation - best not attempted in humid conditions, when the polish will make it feel a whole grade harder. Start at a corner-crack 5m left of the cave, as for Leek. Climb the slick corner-crack to a large ledge at 3m. Place some bomber wires and pull steeply up the wall then rock up left onto the steep slab. Continue up the fine steep corner directly above and pull onto a large ledge. Belay possible. Move up easily leftwards before climbing directly to the top. © Rockfax
FA. E.Rayson 1961.
West Country Climbs , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Lykul | 27 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Super polished crux(es) but great gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Super polished crux(es) but great gear. |
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lighty | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?} | βeta? | |
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βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?} |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)