UKC

21m.

Rockfax Description
A great little route with a big reputation - best not attempted in humid conditions, when the polish will make it feel a whole grade harder. Start at a corner-crack 5m left of the cave, as for Leek. Climb the slick corner-crack to a large ledge at 3m. Place some bomber wires and pull steeply up the wall then rock up left onto the steep slab. Continue up the fine steep corner directly above and pull onto a large ledge. Belay possible. Move up easily leftwards before climbing directly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. E.Rayson 1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS

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User Date Notes
Lykul 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Super polished crux(es) but great gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super polished crux(es) but great gear.
lighty 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?}
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?}

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High S
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Votes cast 62
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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