UKC

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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
31m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A line and a half! The overhang-strewn corner requires a wide range of manoeuvres and, although polished to a high sheen, it is still a classic outing. Start at the base of the corner.
1) 4b, 9m. Squirm up the awkward wide crack to a cave belay.
2) 4b, 13m. Back-and-footing and bridging gains the start of a short traverse left on a hanging slab. Move left along the slab and up through the small overhang above to a stance.
3) 9m. The narrowing-corner above ends at a stout tree belay. © Rockfax

FA. T.Patey 1960.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

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User Date Notes
Fatzak 9 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Polished sketchy af
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βeta: Polished sketchy af
Neil Stuart 13 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tip of the day: don’t forget your chalk bag for this route as I did today. Definitely notched it up a grade!!
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βeta: Tip of the day: don’t forget your chalk bag for this route as I did today. Definitely notched it up a grade!!
ewalker278 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone find a south Devon guidebook at the base of this in the last couple of days? May have left it here on thursday evening (19th), cheers, Ed
βeta?
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βeta: Anyone find a south Devon guidebook at the base of this in the last couple of days? May have left it here on thursday evening (19th), cheers, Ed
tim_broadhurst 8 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route needs a bit of thinking yes it’s polished but doesn’t really cause any issues.
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βeta: Great route needs a bit of thinking yes it’s polished but doesn’t really cause any issues.
richardr 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great route in the wet. An variation on the second pitch goes right at the overhang, up and back left again to the stated belay. Very funny and stays dry in all but the hardest sideways rain.
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βeta: A great route in the wet. An variation on the second pitch goes right at the overhang, up and back left again to the stated belay. Very funny and stays dry in all but the hardest sideways rain.
chris j 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very entertaining! If you face the wrong way you can make life quite hard for yourself...
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βeta: Very entertaining! If you face the wrong way you can make life quite hard for yourself...
victim of mathematics 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not really pumpy or strenuous, just involving lots of comedy wedging. I really enjoyed this route. Those of you averse to having a good laugh on a climb may not...
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βeta: Not really pumpy or strenuous, just involving lots of comedy wedging. I really enjoyed this route. Those of you averse to having a good laugh on a climb may not...

Logged Ascents

731 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 88
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twinkletoes

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Baggy Point)

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