UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
49m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - the first requires care and the second is a testing exercise up a wide and overhanging cleft. Start at the base of a broad buttress that has two small caves at 7m.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the steep buttress right of the two small caves on sloping holds to slabby rock, move up the slab and then traverse left to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge beneath the overhanging corner and belay.
2) 4b, 31m. Climb the corner behind the stance, above a small cave, to where it starts to overhang. Climb the overhanging corner, either up the wide crack or on its right wall - both options are committing. Above, easy climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. N.Hannaby 1960.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

Feedback

User Date Notes
RossT 4 May Show βeta
βeta: Chawn led pitch 1 of the fly. I lead pitch 2 of scar.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chawn led pitch 1 of the fly. I lead pitch 2 of scar.
Martgib 21 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch runout, ground-fall potential on easy climbing. Second pitch amazing, almost 3***
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch runout, ground-fall potential on easy climbing. Second pitch amazing, almost 3***
ADJ85 20 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: led 2nd pitch lovely route, thin on gear low down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: led 2nd pitch lovely route, thin on gear low down

Logged Ascents

339 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 25
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lost Horizon

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Baggy Point)

Loading Notifications...