A fierce start gains good face moves on the upper wall. Start at a steep crack in a recess up and right of the small twin caves. Climb the tough crack and at its end move left and up to a long narrow roof. Traverse 3m left to a ledge and then climb the fine wall above on pockets to a move left that gains a groove. Climb the groove, its continuation, and the slab above to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A tough pitch on account of immediate hard climbing, good plan to get a warm up on something else first...
The initial crack stays damp for some time after rain.
The 'shattered groove' has some hollow rock and needs a bit of care in holds and placements.
FFA B Wilkinson 14/Apr/1979.
Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
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