46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face.
1) 5a. Climb the first 3-4 meters of Central Groove to the ledge and then move right on to the hanging slab. Climb this up right and then jam/layback the crack above around onto the face. Continue sustained jamming up this crack to a stance on the diagonal rake.
2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue up to the ledge belay below a clean cut corner (final pitch of Central groove).
3) 5a. Start just left of the corner below the overhanging arete. Step up to jam the crack that runs the length of the arete and follow this to the top. Alternatively, climb the clean cut corner of Central Groove at 4b.

FA. A.McFarlane 1969

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

benjaminloveday 01/Sep AltLd O/S
evhall 19/Aug AltLd dog

Very easy to top of slab - then very very hard after that - got about half way up by resting on gear - then realised I needed to just get out - so mixture of resting on gear - pulling on gear and climbing - a bit much for me this time!

with tp45597
Hidden 19/Aug AltLd
Tom.Sedgwick 15/Aug Lead β

Link-up with Gideon. I lead the first pitch of fruitflancase and Chris finished on the second pitch of Gideon.

with Chris Spencer
mikeyjbs 13/Aug AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

featuresforfeet 13/Aug 2nd
Dilwat 04/Aug Lead

Finished up the final slab of Central Groove cos it started raining. Sustained and strenuous.

with Dave P
crater 31/Jul 2nd dog

one rest on rope, just pitch one climbed, pumpy route

with rich, mike
Hidden 30/Jul Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 20/Jul Lead
Hidden 16/Jul Lead rpt
Phil79 07/Jul TR
with Shunt
Phil79 25/Jun 2nd rpt

First pitch

with Steve H
Jack Porteous 29/Apr Lead rpt
ClimbingAlex 28/Apr Lead dog

Had a go on lead - made it to above the lay back moves and remembered I can't jam. More practice needed. Came off 4m from the jugs. Lowered off and followed Jack in the dark. One to go back too.

Pete Rigby 18/Apr AltLd O/S
with clams
timreynolds 17/Apr 2nd rpt

P1 only

mark schramm 17/Apr Lead rpt
Dominic Acland 17/Apr Lead

P1 only

with Tim Reynolds
poeter210 08/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr AltLd O/S
clams ?/Apr Lead dog

1 fall near top - pumped out

with PR
Brian H 16/Mar AltLd rpt
with Martin Dunning
nodwas 05/Oct/16 2nd
suds_01 05/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Stu Bracher , Chris sawdon
nodwas 05/Oct/16 2nd
mark4344 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with cheeky
cheeky 24/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Matt Amos 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/16 2nd dog
Leonhamnett 09/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Tried to lead second pitch after seconding first pitch. Got too pumped and fell - possibly missed a good hold. Finished on second.

Dan Geh 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P2. Sustained!

AMJ098 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Turns out I have no stamina

with Dan Geh
ad111 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
dbrooks 30/Jul/16 Lead rpt

led in one pitch, had previously seconded, ended up finishing up the top pitch of central groove due to traffic

with Michael
Alison Cairns 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. P1 excellent - steep and pumpy. After that the climb fizzles out a bit - ended up finishing up Central Groove. A bit easier than Gideon.

with Andy
Skinnybloke 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Lead p1 at last! Not a clean lead but what a climb, you do just ned to get on with it, very pumpy.Pete lead p2 of gidean

alice fuller 08/Jun/16 Lead RP

pleased to lead this,having backed off it last visit.Seconding Pete taking in the moves and gear gave me confidence. Thank goodness for jamming gloves:)

richy85 02/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with George, Paul
Hidden 19/May/16 AltLd
GHawksworth 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 20/Apr/16 AltLd

Lead second pitch

with stuartf
stuartf 20/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

I led pitch 1

nickstephens 07/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Tom.Sedgwick 07/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Phil79 01/Apr/16 2nd rpt

First pitch only.

with Steve H
clubmanpete 18/Mar/16 AltLd

geoffery lead first pitch his first completed E1... well done mate! defo a tough First e1 for anyone I recon!

waydan 06/Mar/16 Lead
with Rob
hornbywill ??/2016 Lead O/S
Jack Porteous 07/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/15 AltLd
Skinnybloke 30/Jul/15 AltLd

Pete lead 1st, I lead 2nd, 3rd in 1go, awsome climb, cant wait to be able to lead 1st pitch.

Andy Moles 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Jon de Leyser
Jon_dL 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
clubmanpete 30/Jul/15 AltLd

Lead first pitch alot smoother this time... key is... get on with it lol......

Hidden 11/Jul/15 AltLd
Laura Faye 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
Kemics 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

led first pitch. So sustained, only 5a moves but so many in a row. Was quite pumped near the belay and ran out of jams in the flaring dirty crack, struggled with the slopers. Great climb!

with Mel
jeremyvanr 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hinchrn 01/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Jack Porteous 23/Jun/15 Lead dog
with lucy walker
silviac 15/Jun/15 2nd O/S


with Scott Borden
Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
clubmanpete 11/Jun/15 AltLd

Gutted I didn't on site this due to one fall about half way up the jamming section.... tried laying back on the hold but to broken apart to do with getting pumped. Jamming is the way for sure... If not ya gunna get pumped. Awsome climb... Every move it has is committing.... Wanna do it again soon. But when I'm a bit fitter in the arms I think... Great belaying by partner geoff.... cheers

Skinnybloke 11/Jun/15 AltLd

Lead second pitch. Pete did well on the first. Both hitting our limits!

martin one 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Markus
Hidden 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
David Staples 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd O/S
Jackislav 26/May/15 Lead rpt
Ewan Russell 25/May/15 AltLd O/S


with Halla
dbrooks 20/May/15 2nd O/S

Lewis led in 1 long pitch

with Lewis
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead O/S
Will Mortimer 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Got round the rock over to find it was very green and damp... bottled it!

s.thursz 18/Apr/15 2nd
Joel Perkin 16/Apr/15 2nd
with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 16/Apr/15 Lead dog

Left plenty of skin inside the crack.....I need to practice my jamming technique! Sustained first pitch. Blocks at top of pitch 3 didn't look great so finished up final corner of CG.

Drew M 25/Oct/14 Lead dog
LDJ 27/Sep/14 Lead
with Lou
waydan 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A brut of a climb, great crack climbing, right up my alley lol.

Alan100 26/May/14 AltLd

Led the first pitch and loved every minute. It looks intimidating but actually it's a great jamming crack.

Martin Bagshaw 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
ipegg 03/May/14 AltLd
Luxulyan 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 02/May/14 2nd O/S

P1 only then top pitch Gideon

with Richard
darcan 25/Apr/14 Lead
nickstephens 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt
gg4419 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Pitch 1

Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 16/Oct/13 Lead O/S

ran top pitches together.

Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jackislav 14/Jul/13 2nd β
nickstephens 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Marks last climb |o(

with Mark Booker
Alex moore ?/Jul/13 Lead
jakenichol 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
felixizzy 09/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 29/May/13 AltLd O/S
ellmang 25/May/13 2nd

With dave the kiwi

pelvoux 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch

with Chris Bull
nickstephens 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with marija, Gareth Greeves
gg4419 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
tim exley 13/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 24/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
Skip 24/Feb/13 2nd dnf

Hands to cold to feel the holds, backed off.

Cheese Monkey 10/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Lovely climbing, but incredibly pumped. I led p2/3 but escaped up CG due to rain!

Jordon Fleming 10/Oct/12 AltLd

lead first pitch :) wow what a route !! i did fall off about half way up the crack cuz i was pumped but this was probs cuz i was hanging round for a while trying to get into the crack section and trying to chalk up wet holds. was gutted i didnt onsite it, cuz i should of :(

BelayBunney 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Fx lead P1, I lead P2+P3 as one pitch. Great first pitch - really lovely to second! P2 and P3 are not that exciting.

francois 05/Sep/12 Lead dog

One rest due to not being able to clip my cam and pumping out in the jamming section. Shoud have gone for it.

with Chris
Dave Rumney 31/Aug/12 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
Doug miller 23/May/12 Lead dog

Got So Pumped had to rest twice on the first pitch

Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
mark schramm 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Baz
mark schramm 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Baz
Hidden 11/Apr/12 AltLd dog
Kayan 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 01/Apr/12 2nd dog

Had three rests on the first pitch - some very sustained climbing.

with James H
MBarraclough ??/2012 Lead
Tristan Sherlock 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with George Coiley
rustaldo 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

felt hard for 5a, but then i'm rubbish at crack climbing! had more of a nightmare on CC-direct earlier in the year though.. probably just about E1

with Liam W
tim.fairhall 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Led P1; Matt led P2 of Gideon

with Matt
i_a_coops 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Davebryant 31/Aug/11 AltLd
with Kye Brooks, Bryn Mays
brynmays 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led in one long pitch. Nice route but mucky in places, especially top pitch crack!

Chris Ebbutt 11/Aug/11 AltLd

Lead first pitch

timreynolds 10/Aug/11 AltLd
Elaine Budden 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S

the crack on the first pitch felt hard and difficult to find the holds.. glad i wasnt leading it :D

with mikey cleverdon
Lauren Davies 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Soo pumped! Awesome though, my jamming wasn't quite as good as I thought after Lofoten

with Lauren Davies
Bob M 23/Jun/11 AltLd

Paul led the main pitch - very glad I was on the blunt end.

Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd rpt
Haydn Jones 20/May/11 2nd O/S

A fantastic way to end the year, my final exam for uni in the mourning then cycle to dewerston for some climbing this E1 was just brilliant!

with martina, ed morris
Ed morris 19/May/11 Lead O/S
berry 12/Mar/11 2nd
with tony hopkins
Popkids 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

It was going well,got past the overhang the pumped out jaming the crack and had to sit on gear. Next time.

with Berry
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
Hidden 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
leohl ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jcook1980 ?/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Leo
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Eike 18/Jul/10 2nd
nickdonohue ?/Jul/10 Lead

a great climb, but can be bit dirty / vegetated. Sustained!

with Steve ?, Martin ?
Philippa Arding 14/Jun/10 2nd

heavy rain started at top of first pitch

with jo nosworthy, nick arding
JonHarvey 03/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Home crag, shyed away from these E1's for years so had a crack at this. Got Well pumped and fell off what felt like the crux :) Too much slab climbing recently!

with James Howell
PaulTanton 30/May/10 2nd O/S
twright180 23/May/10 AltLd
with Luke Homatron
Homes 23/May/10 AltLd
with Thom W
El3ctroFuzz 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A fine first pitch. Second refused to climb, due to route finding mishap. Had to ab and clean. Missed out p2. Ffs.

with Elaine Budden
martin clarke ??/2010 2nd
with nick, steve ashworth
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead rpt
rob1 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Dave Williams
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
pedro.silva 16/Aug/09 2nd dog

Very strenuous climbing. Need to improve hand-jamming substantially. Needed several rests and used gear to move up 2 times

rockferret 16/Aug/09 Lead dog

Didn't really do any jamming and didn't follow my game plan. Got very pumped as a result and blew the onsight. Completed the route after two rests on the rope at the crux to clear the pump.

with Pedro
Luke Dawson ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Insufficient attention paid to footwork. Should have used jamming more effectively

graham knott 08/Jul/09 TR O/S

Hung on...just about. Be back to lead this at some point.

with kafoozalem
Jon_Warner 26/Jun/09 2nd dog

Perhaps OK if you're an grandad climber. Wussed out on lead and pumped out on second.

with Mark Glaister
deklan 07/Jun/09 Lead

took a big fall, 4 metres, halfway up the jamming crack.

with luke
w.pettet-smith 30/May/09 Lead

wowser, got very pumped. didn't have my trad head on.

ripper 24/May/09 Lead

lead all three pitches - found upper half of first pitch, the steep jamming crack, to be quite strenuous. Excellent effort from Jigi to follow!

with Jigi Desai
Tim W 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Marina Unterfosthuber
rockferret 20/May/09 Lead dnf

Only climbed the cracked arete final pitch at something like HVS 5a

with Tony
Phil79 06/May/09 Lead dnf
with Jiff
andy_pemberton ?/Mar/09 2nd
with Martin Dunning
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Popkids 18/May/08 2nd rpt
with Kafoozalem
RobSteere 15/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
ebunick 01/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

al led the first pitch.

with Fat Al
Steerpike 20/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jez
Popkids 09/Feb/08 2nd dog
with Kafoozalem & Nolan
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 28/Aug/07 AltLd
alaan 28/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch.

with Connor
chris wyatt 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S

HArd Work

Hidden 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with karing
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 18/Jul/04 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Mar/04 Lead O/S
fellgazelle 14/Sep/03 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 14/Sep/03 Lead O/S

And again 22/5/04.

Hidden 29/May/03 Lead
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 04/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Gerry Martin
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
Hidden 20/Jun/00 Lead
duncan 21/Apr/00 2nd
with Dan Donovan
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/99 AltLd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead
Mickdenali ??/1998 -
with Mark Harvey
colin milton 14/Jul/94 Lead dog
with eric milton
clark alston ?/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Dave Henderson
Nigel Coe 23/Sep/92 TR


Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 -
whispering nic 21/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
NickJH ??/1991 -
sdht ??/1990 -
Derek Ryden 27/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
Pete Nugent 25/Sep/86 Lead

finished up Gideon

Nick Biven 06/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Rich Whitwell
Simon cook ??/1986 -
davehvs ??/1986 -
Richard Weller 04/May/85 Lead dog
with Hugh Shinn
Hidden 14/Jun/84 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 19/Nov/83 Lead
with Norman Wright
jon 31/Oct/82 Lead
with H
Chris Terrey 15/Mar/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
mark-abz 26/Apr/80 2nd
with Brian W
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Dave Greenald
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 44
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set