A great, historical classic that traditionally involves a tension traverse on P2. The route is HVS if done this way and many prefer to use the original method as Joe Brown himself believes this retains the "original spirit of adventure".
1) 4a, 25m. Follow Sunset Crack to a stance below the corner by a manky thread.
2) 5c (5a), 20m. Delicately foot traverse a slopy ledge right to a groove. Move up the groove which leads up to a ledge on the rib. Traverse right below the overlap into a corner then pull up and right through the roof. Follow the good holds above and right to a spike. Descend slightly and, either make a technical traverse across right, or, using tension off the spike, pull yourself across to a belay ledge with pegs and wires.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up and right to gain and follow a crack. Make hard moves up to gain the base of a corner to a possible belay, although it is common to link this into the next pitch.
4) 4c, 18m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the right and then move left into a crack. This leads to a belay on a ledge just below the Green Gallery.
5) 4a, 5m. Climb up the short wall/crack to reach the terrace. Either escape off rightwards, or head up to climb Pinnacle Arete. © Rockfax
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