A great route in its lower parts. Start just above a collection of boulders below a V-groove. Most people only climb the first one or two pitches and abseil off. .
1) 4c, 20m. Step off the blocks and climb into the sentry box. A committing step left onto the wall and a delicate traverse left lead to a juggy spike. Span left to the ledge and move left to below a short groove. Climb this to the holly tree and traverse left over blocks to the turret belay at the top of Brant Direct.
2) 4c, 15m. Traverse left from the belay and pass over the top of the corner of Brant Direct and enter the awkward V-groove to its left. Climb this short corner and head right along the ledge to belay in a corner almost directly above your belayer.
3) 4a, 40m. Head leftwards up the slab, passing a corner and aiming for the large yew tree. A further 4a pitch up the front of the buttress above can be climbed to top out. Alternatively a 60m abseil reaches the ground from here. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , UK Holiday Plans , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip
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